Thread: Paper backing on oval inlays - remove it, or not?

These wouldn't be like the mosaic tiles where the adhesive backing is on the face of the tile, would they?

If so, you glue 'em in place with the paper side up and remove the paper after the glue has set and 'tis safe to do so.

Could be. But it is hard to tell without actually removing the paper backing, which does not peel off easily. It would need to be moistened and scraped to get rid of the paper backing, which looks likely to destroy the inlay. I am beginning to think the paper, which is very thin, should be left in place, but it would be good to be sure before I commit myself.

Rocker

[quote=Rocker] Should I remove this backing before installing the inlay?

No.
Burl veneers are sold with a paper backing & you don't remove it (unless you are partial to broken up veneers)

Kind regards
Brian

Brian,

Many thanks for confirming what I suspected must be the case.

Rocker

Just so I can store the info away in case of future need, do you have any pix of the inlays you could post for future reference?

This has piqued my curiosity, and I'm always looking for info to "forget" until it's too late.

Skew,

I got my inlays from Dover Inlay, see http://www.doverinlay.com/index.html ; the inlays I am using are similar to the one they have as their company logo. I had to argue with them over freight; they originally wanted to charge me US$90 to send the inlays via UPS courier. But I eventually persuaded them to send them by air letter post for a reasonable fee. They don't give prices for the inlays in their online catalogue, but they are reasonable - US$6.20 for an oval inlay 32 mm x 64 mm.

Rocker

Ah. I can see why you don't want to experiment with 'em.

And if they look half as good in real life as they do in the catalogue, I may have to invest a penny or two myself. Provided I also can negotiate around that UPS fee! :eek:

Originally Posted by Rocker

I got my inlays from Dover Inlay, see http://www.doverinlay.com/index.html

I hate to tell you now, but unless these are some super-duper quality version I haven't seen before, these are available here.

Here is one example at Timbecon.

Originally Posted by markharrison

I hate to tell you now, but unless these are some super-duper quality version I haven't seen before, these are available here.

Here is one example at Timbecon.

And, somewhat closer to Rocker, that range is available in Brisbane from Lazarides and Goods & Chattels.

Kind regards
Brian

Mark and Brian,

I did in fact buy my inlay banding from Timbecon, but the oval inlays they have are too big to fit on the legs of a table, unless they stock smaller ones that are not featured in their catalogue. I was not overly impressed with the quality of the inlay banding that I got from Timbecon; it appears to be made from rather soft woods that are prone to flaking, whereas the Dover Inlay ovals are made from hardwoods like birch.

Rocker

Rocker,

I was hoping that was the case. The banding and inlays I've seen at the various wood shows left me a little cold as well. There was an article on how to make these exact pattern inlays in a previous FWW by Steve Latta. The issue is referred to in an article in the current (Feb 2006) FWW but I'm too lazy to walk down the hall (too much pud ) to get it at the moment. I will report back later if you're interested.

Mark,

I have seen the article you are referring to, but there is no way that I would have the skill and patience to make an oval inlay such as Dover Inlay sell. I am happy to pay for the professionally made ones. I can see why nobody makes reproductions of Georgian furniture for sale these days; the effort and skill required to do the traditional inlay decoration are pretty demanding. One can only marvel at the craftsmanship of the early 19th Century furnituremakers, who did all their work by Dark-side methods.

Rocker

Rocker, glue the inlay down with the paper side up. The paper is removed after the panel is cured. Place a damp cloth over it for few minutes and rub the paper off. Bandings are a mixed kettle... the problem with the cheaper bandings is that they are a bit to thin, 0.6mm requiring very accurate routing. The normal is 1mm, giving you a bit more to play with. I make some of the more simple bandings for boxes and cribbage boards. Have a look at some of this work at...
http://www.geocities.com/jimmac_4880/Jimsshed.html
The more complex bandings I buy from
http://www.veneerinlayaustralia.com.au/

Hope this is of some help to you...
Jim

Powderpost,

Too late! I have glued them in with the paper still on. But they look OK and I don't think it will matter. Anyway, I shall know what to do next time

Nice website you have there. I was up your way in October, thinking of moving to the Atherton Tableland; it is a lovely area but I was put off by the long winding drive to Cairns.

Rocker