Thread: Pencil marks

Originally Posted by jow104

I have always used a pencil (which ever one I could hold of) to do the marking up on my woodwork but when the job is finished I then start to curse about having to remove the marks. I sometimes can get away with a rubber but it usually means sandpaper.

Does anyone have any suggestions for marking up not using a pencil or knife which makes life easier at the end of the job?

Good question.
I have seen some remarkable woodwork and you can still see the pencil mark.

Al

I suppose it all depends on the type and quality of lead in the pencil. And of course, how sharp and how hard you press.. for example, Soft pine marks easily.
I hear a good quality, refined lead 2B is nice to use
Cheers. Gary.

If you are using a jig to do machined dovetails for example, use chalk to mark the top face/egde. It rubs off easily without marking it.

I usually cut the joints and dry assemble.
then dismantle and sand up before gluing
sandup again after gluing
no pencil marks.

I used to have the same problem, in fact I exasperated it by putting the prophylatic coat of Shellac (sponsors) on before I removed the pencil trace. Idiot, I know!

Having become a little more proficient ( maybe 2nd year apprentice level) I find that if I run the eraser, enthusiastically, (don't say rubber cause our Seppo cousins will get excited) in the same direction as the pencil stroke and I have one of the Idiot Child's sharp, shaped erasers, then I can remove the mark. Use a soft pencil and dont press too hard.

If you think removing marking out lines is hard with a pencil, never buy a Nip marking knife. These little bastards are so sharp that you'll be back to the plane to get rid of the score.

A scraper works pretty well for me.

Plus, a 2h will leave a much lighter line than an HB.

I'm with Craig, 2B stands for "two bloody soft!"
2H is the only way to go, also stays sharp for days.
Scotty

Originally Posted by scottyk

I'm with Craig, 2B stands for "two bloody soft!"
2H is the only way to go, also stays sharp for days.
Scotty

and 2H stands for too hard

A hard pencil is not the way to go, it may stay sharp for days but it will cause some crushing of the fibres, thereby leaving a scribed line which will require more sanding to remove.

Soft pencil sharpened to a chisel point and light pressure when marking is the go.
You could put on a strip of masking tape and mark on that, just peel off and no mark to remove.

As echnidna said, assemble dry then sand before final glue up.
.

Originally Posted by jow104

and 2H stands for too hard

We must have the same girlfriend, mate! Does she come from Essex?

Originally Posted by Bodgy

We must have the same girlfriend, mate! Does she come from Essex?

Correct. (wickford):confused:

My 2c worth - I found harder pencils crushed too many fibres, so I have used a 2B for quite a while, dark enough to see with light pressure, and if the fibres are not broken, easy enough to rub... ERASE with a white plastic ERASER. It means I have to sharpen the pencil more often, but I'm happy with that.
Horses for courses...

A sharp knife, black ball point or a 2B is what i use

I'm with both Echnidna and CraigB. Scraper and sanding prior to assembly.