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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    San Antonio, Texas
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    Default Pergola Design - Beams

    I'm building a cedar pergola with 6x6 post, 2x12 beams sanwiched on each side the the posts, and 2x8 joists across the beams.
    The overall size is 25' x 14'. The post on the long 25' side are 22' apart with a post in the middle.
    The longest 2x12 beams I can get are 20', so I will have to use 2 2x12's to reach across the 3 post but I dont think its a good idea to butt joint the 2x12's together on the sides of the middle 6x6 post. So I thought of this concept shown in the sketch to have seperate levels so I could get a good solid attachment for each 2x12 beam to the posts with bolts.
    Does this sound like a good worthwhile idea or is butting 2x12's on the side of a single 6x6 post acceptable?
    pergolaE.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Geelong
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    Default

    http://www.designrulz.com/design/201...aceful-refuge/
    these pics show similar design to yours. One thing that I see different to your design is the addition of cleats to help support the beam. Or a different approach is to add supporting angle braces to support the beams. The beam sizing seems ok for span width on the tables I googled.
    anyhow I am no expert but I thought I would give you an opinion of how to better your design.
    cheers

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    Sorry, but my immediate response to your design is YUK

    Google "scarf joint" -- it's the proper way to achieve the spans you want. In your case the inside joint would one side of the post, the outside joint the other.

    also, if the effective span is only about 12 feet, do you need 12 x 2s, or would a smaller section (say 10 x 2) be sufficient?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    Gee you Americans have it tough - 2 x 12 Western Red Cedar for a pergola! We in Australia should be so lucky. Then again I guess we have access to some pretty good hardwoods.

    I think the design looks a little odd. If you have to have the structure 25' long you are committed to using 2 beams anyway, so a scarf joint on the centre post looks like the way to go to me too. (Stupid computer trying to tell me I spelt 'centre' wrong - no doubt you would agree?)

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    5

    Default Scarf Joint

    Ian,
    I've researched Scarf Joints, but didn't find much information on scarf'ing 2x's.
    Attaching updated sketchup drawing using scarf joint on the 2x12's over the center post.
    Is this the correct scarf joint pattern for 2x's?
    Is glue used in the joint?
    Should the joint be located saddled on side of the post with bolts going through the joint and post?

    Thanks

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    5

    Default Drawings

    Forgot to attach drawings.. here they are
    pergolaF1.jpgpergolaF2.jpg

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    64
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    848

    Default

    That would be ok
    or you could do something like this:
    Scarf_joints_(PSF).pngscarf2.gifScarfJoint.jpgf212.jpg

    Yes, bolt through the joint.
    TM

  9. #8
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    Thanks for posting those Termi

    another version uses pegs to hold the joint together





    there's lots of variations

    here is a reference http://www.basiccarpentrytechniques....oints%207.html

    in your case -- using paired 12 x 2s, one joint could be about 2ft to the right of the centre post, the other about 2ft to the left of the post. sort of like this


    or the joint could be over the post like this

    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    2,015

    Default Pergola framing

    The scarf joint looks very classy.
    I'd recommend that the beams sit on top of the posts.

    You can butt or lap the two beams on top of the posts if you want something simpler.
    I used wooden pegs to hold my joints together but a big steel plate would also work.
    No glue.

    Knee braces would add stability to the frame.
    I used mortice and tens with pegs but they could be bolted on.

    Notch the joists and or beam to help keep them in place. Metal brackets are available if you want to go that way.
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  11. #10
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Note to Jak

    check out your local building code regarding what bracing you might need to add to your pergola frame.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    5

    Default New Pergola Design

    After lots of research, the design has changed.
    The beams are now 2x8's, running perpendicular from the house. The span between the post with the double 2x8 beams are longer (13') than the other direction (11'), so figure the larger boards should span the longer distance.
    The joists are still 2x6 and now spanning the shorter distance of 11'. Separate 2x6 boards meet at the center post, butted together. Those meeting at the post are bolted thru the 6x6 post. This forms some support to racking, but I do plan on adding knee braces (not shown yet).
    All 6 posts are attached to concrete using Simpson ABA66RZ metal post bases.
    Appreciate any feedback on this latest Pergola design.

    pergolaH1.jpgpergolaH2.jpgpergolaH3.jpg

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