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  1. 4th July 2013, 09:27 PM #1
    Granville
    Granville is offline New Member
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    Default Picket Gate - when to double brace?

    I am building a gate frame which I will place pickets on. The length is 2 m by 1.1 m height. Gate will be 29kg which includes 17 pickets and frame.

    I know metal is better but I just wanted it to blend in with the adjoining picket fence railing. But if you really think it won't work with wood, let me know.

    Should I single brace?
    A double as seen in figure 11 of this brochure ?
    An adjustable turnbuckle brace ?

    The driveway goes down a slope which the gate opens to. So when open, there will be a substantial gap under the gate. So it needs to be pretty solid.

    Any other advice welcome.
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  3. 5th July 2013, 09:08 AM #2
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    Ball Peen
    Ball Peen is offline SENIOR MEMBER
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    Someone up the road built one of these, looks fantastic!

    Five Bar Gates, Mortise and Tenon Gates, English Gates
    Cheers, Bill
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  4. 5th July 2013, 10:35 AM #3
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    chambezio
    chambezio is offline Burnt Out Chip
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    Mmmm....2Metres....thats a lot of leverage. I would have 3 vertical styles and add a diagonal braces across the middle of each opening. You are actually making a truss with pickets fitted to it. Make sure the tennons are tight in the mortices and you use polyeuathane glue, then when finished paint them in oil based paints, to further protect them from the elements.

    EDIT (more info) Both braces need to be from the bottom corner (from the hinge side) so the brace is actually "lifting" the gate. Going from the top down won't stop any sag of the gate [I hope that makes sense]
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod
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  5. 5th July 2013, 10:53 AM #4
    artme
    artme is offline Skwair2rownd
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    One of the most important points to remember when building a gate is the leverage on the post to which
    the gate is hinged.

    I suggest you anchor your hinge post no less than 900mm into the ground and preferably 1200mm.

    Research shows that a 150mm post will take twice the strain at 1200 mm than at 900mm.

    You may think this is extravagant but I know from experience that this is the way to go.
    I built plenty of farm fences and gates.
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  6. 5th July 2013, 09:24 PM #5
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    malb
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    I'm with artme regarding structure, and also suggest installing a 'prop' post to support the gate in the open position if there is any likelyhood of it being left open for any period of time. This will reduce the tendancy for the gate to droop and also reduce the tendency to pull the hinge post out of line with the surounding fencing. Preferable for the swinging end of the gate to be properly supported in the closed position as well, rather than just having a bar to stop it swinging.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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  7. 6th July 2013, 09:34 AM #6
    Kidbee
    Kidbee is offline SENIOR MEMBER
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ball Peen View Post
    Someone up the road built one of these, looks fantastic!

    Five Bar Gates, Mortise and Tenon Gates, English Gates
    Those five bar keel gate are impressive. I wonder how they fashion the keel part?
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  8. 9th July 2013, 04:01 AM #7
    Robson Valley
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    Here at 53N we have other things to "bear" in mind.
    Midnight. The big dogs go tearing out the back door.
    In its haste to escape, the bear went through the gate, not over it.
    New fence/gate contractor 1 Homeowner 0.

    Any chance you can add a jack-leg to support the free edge corner of the gate when open?
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  9. 10th July 2013, 06:58 PM #8
    DonIncognito
    DonIncognito is offline Senior Member
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    Video: Oak Field Gate | Watch The Woodwrights Shop Online | PBS Video

    I havent watched it, but it looks like its applicable to your situation.
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