Thread: Picture Framing Question

well for starters you don't NEED to use one of these. but try on off cuts. people without such devices have used small brads, staples-with the stapler spaced out- so that they stick out 2-3mm, hot glue or whatever. Try off cuts -suck it and see.

Assuming that you don't already have a diamond point gun you can use push points instead.

Available from Bunnies.

I agree with Bohdan; use push-points rather than spend a lot of money on that glorified stapler. Both types of fastening do the same job in much the same way; except push points can’t be bent out of the way. You can buy a special tool to fit them but a joint knife, filler knife or even a flat bladed screwdriver will do.

What are the frames made of? 3mm worth of “meat” is probably on the hairy edge for softwood but do-able; whereas hardwood will almost certainly split.

I will Try the Everhang Push Point Glazier Framing Pins 50 Pack from Bunnings on a test piece.
The wood is PNG Rosewood.
I might have to use a thiner backing board to give the back more meat.

Speaking as an old picture framer from way back......there's a reason commercial frame mouldings are made with VERY soft timber.

There are two varieties of push points; permanent (silver colour, thicker) and bendable (black colour, thinner). The bendable ones are the best chance you have of getting them into harder timber.

What is your backing?
If you use foam core you can part crush it so there is more thickness for your push point.

The backing is foam core its about 6mm thick.

I bought some 3mm masonite that I am going to replace the foam core with this should give me 6mm of meat to drive the point into.

I will test with scrap and see how it works.

PNG Rosewood is on the softer side

Foamcore comes in 3mm and 5/6mm thicknesses. Provided the frame isn't too big, the 3mm will be stiff enough. Anything much bigger than 300mm on a side really needs the thicker foamcore, but 3mm is fine for smaller framing jobs. This would give you more meat on the frame to get the points into, and it can be squashed a bit (as noted by Handyjack above) - especially easy when driving the points with a proper gun.

All mat materials and foamcore for framing are specifically acid free to avoid damaging the work. Good reason NOT to use MDF or masonite.

fudge

I will go back to the picture framer to see if he can get me out of this mess

A lot of framing places will sell all the materials to DIY, including 3mm foamcore

This thread got me thinking about an online tool I built for picture framing. Thought I'd post it here as well.

I built an online picture framing tool - looking for feedback

Mr Brush and Handyjack are on the money with their thoughts. I have done a lot of framing with 3mm foamcore and fine brads holding everything in. It is a good idea to tape around the edges on the back to keep dust out. You picture framer should have the tape.

The way to finish the back of the frame is to glue heavy brown paper over the whole back with adhesive transfer tape and then lightly spray with water.

This will shrink the paper and give it that finished look as well as keeping the dust out.

If you are only doing a small quantity you don't need to buy the gun as you can apply the glue without it.