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  1. #16
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    Nov 2012
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    Some pipe clamps slip on gal pipe. In the USA they recommend that you use 'black' pipe to get a really good gip with the clamp. (see latest 'Australian' Woodsmith.) I have found that to be true as some of my pipe clamps do slip on gal pipe but others bite well on it. Hope this helps.


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  3. #17
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    Jan 2012
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    Perth
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    Hi all
    i too just bought some 3/4" pipe clamps and now looking for the pipe. Browsed bunnings on line and they list a 20mm threaded gal pip. Just wondering whether anyone has used this and whether the 20mm is just a metric round off of 3/4".
    thanks
    LP

  4. #18
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    Apr 2014
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    The 3/4" size is a nominal bore size so a metric conversion would be 20 or 19 mm. The pipes outside diameter is constant, its the wall thickness that varies with the rating of the pipe so the 20 mm pipe may be just light duty.

  5. #19
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    1,813

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    Timbecon and Carbatec both sell the threaded pipe needed for these clamps, relatively reasonably priced last time I looked.

  6. #20
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    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    I bought the 20mm X 1200mm threaded sections from Bunnings with some joiners. Works fine on my 3/4" pipe clamps.

    l also bought a full length (6m) from a plumbing supply shop but it was near the last of their stock and wasn't cheap. Plus, if you cut it into more than two pieces you are going to have thread one end.

  7. #21
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    Nov 2012
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    I have used the Bunnings pipe successfully with my pipe clamps. I don't use pipe clamps much any more though as I prefer bar clamps. That may be something you could also consider.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Artboy View Post
    Hi all
    i too just bought some 3/4" pipe clamps and now looking for the pipe. Browsed bunnings on line and they list a 20mm threaded gal pip. Just wondering whether anyone has used this and whether the 20mm is just a metric round off of 3/4".
    thanks
    LP

    A 5.8m length of 20 mm galv pipe cost me $50 cash in 2013 from Valve and fitting supplies in O'Conner
    I don't think it has gone up since.

    With that length you can make 2 x 1100 mm and 2 x 1800 mm long clamps.
    I bought 2 lengths and also have 2 x 2.9m longs clamps to use on leg diagonals

    If anyone is in Perth I can help with threading as I have the gear to cut up and thread 20 mm pipe.

  9. #23
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    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth
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    Thanks everyone. That is helpful. I will give the Bunnings 20mm a crack - one length anyway - and see how it goes.

    Thats good advice BobL - I found a 3/4" die in my shed the other day so may end up doing that also.

    cheers
    LP

  10. #24
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    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    McJings has a range of dies and holders. https://mcjing.com.au/categorybrowse...?categoryid=50

    3/4" and 20mm are listed.

    I can obtain pipe from MetalMart here in Canberra. Theyll even pop a thread on it for me. If you have trouble, drop me a note and I can acquire it for you... Send it over via EGO couriers.

  11. #25
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    McJings has a range of dies and holders. https://mcjing.com.au/categorybrowse...?categoryid=50

    3/4" and 20mm are listed.

    I can obtain pipe from MetalMart here in Canberra. Theyll even pop a thread on it for me. If you have trouble, drop me a note and I can acquire it for you... Send it over via EGO couriers.
    Just a note of warning that conventional 3/4" and 20mm dies will not work - what is needed are the 3/4" pipe threads dies.
    eg DIE BSPF3/4-14, G PARALLEL SERIES, 63MM DIA which are large expensive dies ($38),
    They also require a large, expensive 65mm die holder ($36)
    Purchasing both can turn it into an expensive exercise for someone just wanting to make a couple of long clamps.

  12. #26
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    Jul 2015
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    Opossum Bay
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    54

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Just a note of warning that conventional 3/4" and 20mm dies will not work - what is needed are the 3/4" pipe threads dies.
    eg DIE BSPF3/4-14, G PARALLEL SERIES, 63MM DIA which are large expensive dies ($38),
    They also require a large, expensive 65mm die holder ($36)
    Purchasing both can turn it into an expensive exercise for someone just wanting to make a couple of long clamps.
    This is pretty much the experience I had.

    It worked out cheaper for me to just buy a bunch of premade bits of gal pipe from bunnings to use.

    The place where I source my metal from couldn't help with the tapping. I couldn't find anywhere that sold the dies to cut the correct thread (not even plumbing specific places), in fact they suggested trying to find an older plumber and seeing if he had the equipment to do it. I even tried some local machining shops, who didn't have a die for it, but they could cut them on their lathe, at $20 a piece... That was more expensive than the gal ones at bunnings.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kilmore, near Melbourne, Australia
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    66
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    1,879

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    I tapped mine using a regular plumbers tap and die set. Hard to ensure the pipe doesn't twist while tapping the thread but I got there in the end. Oil helps a lot!

    I was tremendously fortunate that a mate's brother is a plumber so I borrowed his set. He also had just removed 3/4 gas pipe which was not only perfect size, but already threaded hence halving my work.

    When cutting to size, I used the angle grinder to bevel the pipe's end to ease commencement of thread cutting.

    Anyway I suggest checking recyclers or salvage yards for cheap pipe.
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    lara
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    79

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    I got 3 lengths of the black pipe from a steel supplier and paid them to cut i for me - ended up with 4 2.8m and 8 shorter pieces.
    If I remember correctly, the black pipe was slightly thicker (stronger, but heavier), but the salesman convinced me to get it instead the zinc one after I told him what I 'm going to use it for. The price difference was negligible. After 2 year of sitting in my shed didn't rust at all, and the threads still look shiny.
    I was considering buying the threader, but the price of a good one was putting me off. Found a retired local plumber. For $50 he threaded them all for me ((both ends - 24 threads) in one afternoon. I'd take me a week to do that if I had the threader, no to mention blisters... (I tried it some 50 years ago at school, worked, but wasn't easy. I also remember using beef tallow as a lubricant.)
    While using the clamps I got a nasty surprise - the pipe ends were very sharp. Black PVC end cups help.

  15. #29
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    Sep 2011
    Location
    Northern Beaches, Sydney
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    68
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    329

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    I think most of us would have access to or know where to get 3/4" pipe cheaply. The big sticking point is whether you know someone who can thread the ends cheaply or do you buy a set of pipe threaders and the 3/4" BSPT die to do the ends? I have about 6 sets of pipe clamps without threaded pipe. I may just buy them from Bunnings. I was in there the other day and here are their rough prices for pipe threaded at both ends.
    450mm pipe $5
    600mm pipe $8
    900mm pipe $12
    Cap ends $2.50

    Stewie

  16. #30
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    Nov 2005
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    West Gippsland, Vic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie D View Post
    I think most of us would have access to or know where to get 3/4" pipe cheaply. The big sticking point is whether you know someone who can thread the ends cheaply or do you buy a set of pipe threaders and the 3/4" BSPT die to do the ends? I have about 6 sets of pipe clamps without threaded pipe. I may just buy them from Bunnings. I was in there the other day and here are their rough prices for pipe threaded at both ends.
    450mm pipe $5
    600mm pipe $8
    900mm pipe $12
    Cap ends $2.50

    Stewie
    Be aware that Bunnings pipe is slightly smaller OD than 3/4". I bought some Bessey pipe clamps from Carbatec and bought threaded pipes from TBGS and the first time I used them the rear clamp just slipped along the pipe as I tightened the front clamp. I have to jam a a small screwdriver into the release leaves. A right PITB.


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