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  1. #1
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    Default Plane restoration, lateral adjustment lever

    Hi all, firstly, I do appologise if this thread is in the wrong place, I wasn't sure exactly where to put it. Anyhoo the situation is this....
    I am attempting my first plane restoration on a stanley 4 1/2, I have disassembled it no trouble, but the lateral adjustment lever is very hard to move from side to side. I have applied the trusty old RP7 which made it a little easier to move, but it is still quite firm. Now I confess, I know very little about planes and it may be this is normal. So my question is how loose/tight should the lever be, and if it should be loose how do I go about making it so?

    Thanks in advance.
    Make something idiot proof, and they make a better idiot.

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  3. #2
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    All my planes have fairly tight lateral levers. Better to be tight than loose. IMHO the best single improvement you can make whilst the plane is apart is to fit a larger pin in the adjuster yoke. Most planes have a fairly sloppy fit here and it makes the depth adjustment backlash really bad. Just use a nail that is the right size to fit the yoke and drill out the frog to suit.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #3
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    Firm is good

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    All my planes have fairly tight lateral levers. Better to be tight than loose. IMHO the best single improvement you can make whilst the plane is apart is to fit a larger pin in the adjuster yoke. Most planes have a fairly sloppy fit here and it makes the depth adjustment backlash really bad. Just use a nail that is the right size to fit the yoke and drill out the frog to suit.
    Please be careful if you do this. The hard part is not cracking the frog as you tap the rivet (nail) to round it off. I would just leave it as this has cost me a new frog in the past.

  6. #5
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Thanks Pac man, i should have added that. You have been warned...but it is worth it IMO
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  7. #6
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    I had one that was too tight so I tried an experiment : - I popped it into an electrolysis bath for about half an hour. That loosened up the joint and I then used a turps bath to wash out the frog. My theory was that there was some rust in the joint where the lateral adjusting arm pivots which the electrolysis dissolved??
    I will add that, as the previous posters said, " Firm is good".
    Cheers,
    Steck

  8. #7
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    Thanks guys, I think I will leave as is until I get some experience in what I am doing.
    Make something idiot proof, and they make a better idiot.

  9. #8
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    here is a post from another forum which may be helpful Fettling A Plane from Junker to Jointer

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