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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    4,464

    Default

    This maybe totally out of the ball park but;
    Your local TAFE library should have online access to all of the Australian Standards. You will need someone with a student or staff card to access it though.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lindfield N.S.W.
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,643

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    YOu can see which libraries have copies here
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Horsham Victoria
    Posts
    5,713

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    Great news. Sound like you saved several hundred dollars

    The timber framing code also has nominal size footings. If you post a pic of what you have with spacings etc I may be able to help you out.

    If you go bak to the building surveyor with your finished pics you can ask him if the details comply with AS2870


    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    39

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    So I went through a number of processes of self doubt on my ability to draw and calculate things properly. Also a case of measure a 100 times draw once). Plans have been approved by council first go and I must say the council were very helpful along the way. Preparing the site now and encountered asbestos in landfill used in existing raised concrete patio. Removing this is taking time. Hope to have a deck built by January as I can only work on it during weekends and even that at this time of year is hard. Will submit pictures and my plans once it is built (provided I do a good job).

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

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    Good on you having a go at the drawings. Does seem daunting before you try but a step at a time and you get there.
    Regards
    John

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    39

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    Ok I have now removed the asbestos but in doing so had to remove about 6000mm x 1500mm and 300mm depth of soil. Now I am no sure on what affect the fill will have on the some of the footings that go in that area. The footings will go into 300m of undisturbed soil while a further 300mm will be surrounded by fill to make the total height of the 600mm required.
    Hopefully somebody sees this post and has been in this situation before and has an answer as to if the footings need or surrounding fill needs something done to it.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,357

    Default

    The bottom of your footing needs to be on stable undisturbed ground, it does not matter so much if the sides are in loose material
    Is that what you are referring to?

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Coffs Coast
    Posts
    141

    Default

    More material above the bottom of the footing will increase the footings resistance to bearing failure, so normally it's a good thing.. So long as the material you're founding on is Stiff or better, which it probably is.

    For deck type loads it's normally pretty rare for the footings to be loaded too high and bearing type failures of foundations are pretty rare. Settlement however is more common so just check the base of the excavation is undisturbed natural ground and strong enough.
    I.e. To be safe, Don't stop digging until you can't dig anymore. If you can use a shovel it's probably not strong enough. If you think you need to use a crowbar then your probably OK.
    If your worried/ sick of digging, get an engineer to check. ( Foundation movement is an uninsurable risk)

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Great thanks guys. That's what I was thinking initially and then I was a bit worried there may be some issues with side ways pressure on the footings. Admittedly not all footings are in the area and the base is solid as I have found it hard to get to this point so the next 300mm will be harder.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    39

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    So an update on my progress and a question. I had to move a sewer pipe as it went through my footings on the outside of the deck. Planned on replacing the pipes as they were terracota and had already blocked twice due to an old tree root or something but it has taken some time getting quotes and digging the new trenches for the pipes myself.
    Now digging post holes and getting quotes for wood etc. so on my way.
    My question is that I have started digging the posts and the ones closest to the house have a bit of the foundation in them about 5-10cm. Should I dig around them i.e. leave them as part of the hole and dig to the depth I need, break out the bit that is in the hole or do I move them further out from the house to avoid the foundation (this I worry is too far out for cantilever for the joists to join up near the house).
    Any opinions/knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated.
    If anyone has encountered this before

  12. #26
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,373

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    Just let the house foundation encroach the hole and fill with concrete. Be aware that there will be no settlement of the piers that are affected by the house but you MAY get some settlement (5-10mm depending on soil type) on the remainder of the new piers away from the house once the final constructed load is finished.
    The biggest reason for any settlement in pier holes is the failure to remove ALL LOOSE MATERIAL from the hole before placement of concrete. I actually vacuum the hole just before placing concrete, it also helps to put a bit of water in the hole first as this stops the ground from sucking the moisture out of the concrete too quickly which prevents the concrete from compacting properly. Also it helps to use either a concrete needle vibrator or rod the concrete with a crow bar after you have placed the concrete.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ringwood, VIC
    Posts
    575

    Default

    Recently installed a deck also, and fence.

    Especially for the 1m deep holes, a vacuum cleaner (with a catch bucket) was a back saver...
    And I need the crow bar from about 150mm depth
    Then I change to my little aldi pneumatic digger...

    Russ

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Thanks for the replies. Sounds like it isn't an issue then.
    I also unfortunately have a concrete foundation, where the previous smaller concrete patio which was raised on bricks, which runs through 4 of my holes which I will need to remove as I don't know their depth or anything but it should give me an indication of how far down that was taken for a solid base.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Making good progress on digging the holes for the deck. Have read a couple of ways that people install metal stirrups in concrete and I am confused.
    I feel I would do a better job if I attach the stirrups to pieces of wood that are horizontal and level and kept at the right height with bricks etc.over the holes while I get concrete poured in.
    Then install the posts after the concrete has set.
    I am confused as I see people suggesting that the posts be installed in the stirrups first and then set in place with a few pieces of wood before pouring concrete. For 24 posts this seems like a lot of wood sticking around and would make pouring concrete difficult.
    Any body have a way that they recommend?

  16. #30
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,373

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    Your first method is the correct one
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

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