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  1. #1
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    Apr 2019
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    Default plastic T track profiles

    does anyone know of any available T track or V groove profiles?

    I'm looking at building a table saw sled similar to this guys with some aluminium fence/t track on the face of the rear push bar for jigs and flip stops.



    my issue i've just thought of is the fact that i own a saw stop, I can bypass the stop mechanism for the original cut, but i'm a little paranoid that it will only take a small amount of deflection or run out and the blade will clip the aluminium and set the break off, and bypassing the mechanism EVERY start will just be impracticable. my two solutions are:

    cut the normal style aluminium fence slightly wider (1mm either side), this does how ever kind of negate the zero clearance idea of the sled, as per the pic below:
    i can't imagine that gap being a HUGE issue but still slight annoyance.

    sled.jpg


    my other idea is to see if i can track down a plastic version, my initial search hasn't been overall successful though. i also wonder about the flex the plastic might have versus aluminium.


    3rd option i suppose is just build it all out of wood and just put some T track in the top for a flip stop.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
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    I didn't watch the video to see the build but could you have a 2 piece aluminium extrusion and glue or screw a section of wood the same thickness as the extrusion say 20 - 30mm wide between them where the blade passes through. You wouldn't need the tee bolt in the stop that close to the blade, so not having a tee slot there wouldn't be a problem. If you needed the stop on the other side of the blade then just slide it off one end and back on the other.
    Dallas

  4. #3
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    Easy - just build a design that does not have the blade running through aluminium track!

    A disadvantage of the design you show is that the vertical track on the face of the fence will eventually (and probably quickly) become a NON-zero-clearance fence. Much better to have a track running along the top of the fence above the max cutting height.

    (You don't really need pricey proprietary flip stops either.)

    There a plenty of great designs you could choose - and that incorporate replaceable zero clearance inserts.

    e.g. here is one:


    And another:

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    I didn't watch the video to see the build but could you have a 2 piece aluminium extrusion and glue or screw a section of wood the same thickness as the extrusion say 20 - 30mm wide between them where the blade passes through. You wouldn't need the tee bolt in the stop that close to the blade, so not having a tee slot there wouldn't be a problem. If you needed the stop on the other side of the blade then just slide it off one end and back on the other.

    This is somethibg i thought if after posting the thread. The only down side i could see is aligning it to the blade, i'd have ti aling both sides of the blade separately.

    Again not a huge deal but does introduce the potential for errors

  6. #5
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    I just watched the video and the way he aligns the fence is really bad. He should have done it the way you would with a normal wooden fence by fitting a screw at one end and then make adjustments by pivoting the whole fence.
    I agree with Ross that it would be better to just mount the tee track to the top of the fence and you have no problems with triggering the brake. The extrusion on the face just complicates things with no real gains. The Katz-Moses stop he fits slides and locks on the top anyway.

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