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Thread: How do I do this please
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28th March 2012, 05:05 PM #16Senior Member
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Well, Its finally finished. A new router table with loads of working space.
The timber supports, legs etc are are recycled stock. The formica is also recycled. A kitchen place had stuck it down to a job and then had to rip it off, so it was relatively inexpensive. The MDF and wheels are new.
The only downside is that I have set the Kreg component in permanently, but hopefully that should not be a problem.
Cheers
RicCheers
Ric
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28th March 2012 05:05 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th March 2012, 10:03 AM #17
Looks good Ric, plenty of room for larger panels or such, from the looks of the solid fence setup is that it slides in two T tracks which can work fine, however I have found with twin adjustment designs used for positioning is that it can become a pain....adjust one side, readjust the other, readjust the other and on it goes until you sneek up on where you want it, with my solid fence adjustment, I can move both sides but then lock one side in rough position which then becomes a pivot, then the other side provides fine adjustment, works quite well, might be something worth thinking about for your setup
Pete
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29th March 2012, 12:16 PM #18Senior Member
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Pete,
Bugger! Every time you think you have got the mouse trap exactly the way you want it, some bastard comes along and tells you about a better trap.
Unfortunately its a good idea that I will have to seriously think about.Cheers
Ric
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30th March 2012, 12:11 AM #19
I guess I am just standing on others shoulders that have gone before,
All you need to do is a radiused slot on the movable side to allow for movement, also some tee nuts screwed into the flat plane of the fence with some bolts to provide tilting of the fence if not quite square to the table surface, also a taller fence is good
A further little trick with the pivoting fence is a stop that locks in the T track that butts up to the back of the fence, this is then a full depth cut stop which then allows you to move the fence away from the stop for shallower cuts but then back to the full depth without re-measuring.
Pete
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30th March 2012, 05:06 AM #20Senior Member
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Thanks for the suggestions Pete. They sound doable, but I have some questions if you don't mind.
1. What do you mean by a "radiused slot"?
2. The fence is square to the surface so can I leave out the tilting bit?
3. Stop locks are no problem as I have a number of spares already.
Any pictures you could provide would be great.
Cheers
RicCheers
Ric
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30th March 2012, 08:34 PM #21
1. The slot that allows movement of the fence will need to have a radius/curve the same as the distance between the T tracks, this assumes that the slot width is the same size as your bolt size, alternativley you could make a wider straight slot to allow the movment to occour with a large thick flat washer to span the extra width of the slot, either way will work, but the first has a little more finesse
I can do some pics, I shall have to remember to do so tho and might forget for a day or two
2. Yep no probs, I made my fence out of chipboard and I have found that I have had some movement with moisture absorbtion at the edges, should have painted the edges so I added the adjusters and just check for square before I use it.
3. good good I made up a heap and they do get used in other areas.
Pete