Thread: How do I do this please

To try and support two extensions ridgidly would be difficult. Would it not be better to make a complete top of the dimensions you require?

Yep Rusty, that's possible but that's a waste of a very good basic unit top that cost me $300.

Cheers
Ric

Why do you want to extend the back?

Then what about a large bench top with a hole cut in the centre to fit yor existing table. Could be supported by blocks attached to the existing legs or fit adjustable legs to the four corners of the new table.

For my money, I would go with a new top as well. You could transfer the mounting plate, router and corner supports to the new top. For a small cost you could buy a new set of corner supports for the new top, and have the plate and router quickly interchangable between large and small tables. Maybe even a complete table and frame assembly for the larger unit, as I would not like a lot of overhang with the two teired system you currently have. The value of a router table is limited if you can't get (and keep) it flat, as this limits it use with profile bits etc. Therefore having fold down or detachable extension wings may not solve you current issue.

To Be honest build a new bench unit on wheels, to a height that suits you , then dismantle the KREG from the steel legs, and inlet the whole Kreg Table into the bench top , you can then add dust extraction as well, and storage for tools & router bits,.

Just my 2 bobs worth.

Jeff
vk4

Thanks for the suggestions.

One thing I should have mentioned is that space is a real problem, so the smaller the footprint, the better.

Cheers
Ric

There is no point in asking for advice if you don't take it, so I have built a new router table top and have inserted the Kreg original top into it.

I could have gone about in a better way, hindsight is marvellous, but overall it should be ok in the long run when it is finished. However, I have a little problem that I need some advice on please.

The Kreg component is not quite flush with the new top. BUGGER!!! The picture attached shows the size and location of the problem. The Kreg section has been glued in with epoxy so it cant be taken out again easily.

Although the corner is .75mm to low, as its only the corner hopefully it wont cause me to much grief. In the middle of the side its .3mm and at the back in the middle the drop is .3mm.

Any suggestions please? Is it necessary to build up the lip, and if so, what would be the best thing to use so it doesn't look awful?

Cheers
Ric

(Picture now uploaded - thanks Rusty.)

Rick, there doesn't seem to be any pictures loaded. What is the new bench made of and why did you glue the Kreg in? Won't this now mean you have a large cumbersome top that may often not be required? Did the glue cause the difference in height. Sorry about all the questions, but need to Know to come up with any sort of answer.

I deicide to bite the bullet and have now removed the Kreg top from the table by cutting it out with a jig saw.

It turned out that the one corner of the Kreg was slightly warped and that was the cause of the initial problem. I will mount it differently this time so that I can get it flush, or as near as damn it.

Cheers
Ric

Ah, a picture is worth a thousand words. May I suggest, rather than just cutting a straight through hole, why not form a rebated hole with a router and drop the Kreg onto the rebate. It wouldnt be a bad idea to slightly deepen the rebate to allow the Kreg to be shimmed up to level. This may be important if your new table is a timber based product as expansion and contraction will occure over time.

Originally Posted by rustynail

Ah, a picture is worth a thousand words. May I suggest, rather than just cutting a straight through hole, why not form a rebated hole with a router and drop the Kreg onto the rebate. It wouldnt be a bad idea to slightly deepen the rebate to allow the Kreg to be shimmed up to level. This may be important if your new table is a timber based product as expansion and contraction will occure over time.

Rusty, that's exactly what I had planned to do. Unfortunately the epoxy glue did such a good job of cementing it in that I had to cut it out with a jigsaw. The black 'plastic' component on the edges of the Kreg melted in places when it was being cut out so I had to cut it all off. That left a fair gap that must be filled as it would cause feed problems and looked bloody awful.

So, I am in the process of filling it with white filler and when finished it should look fine. The only downside is that it will then be fixed in place.

Cheers
Ric

Hi Torb,
I would suggest as Rusty and even go a little deeper with the rebate and if possible 20mm ish wide, then I would locate adjusters at points within the rebate to adjust the hieght of the Kreg plate, adjusters can be buried nuts in the rebate with a hole thru to the bottom side of the table to suit and this then facilitates final hieght alignment.


Pete

Bit of a shame having to be fixed in place. Would a release agent be a possibility so that your filler sticks to one face but not the other? When I make up custom rifles, the action is bedded into the stock. To prevent the bedding filler from sticking to the metal of the action, I spray the action with Pure and Simple non stick cooking spray. Action just lifts out after the epoxy filler has dried.