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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Default PLY Thickness? Toy Train Table

    Hi All,

    Have a quick question relating to a toy train table that I want to make up at home for the boys.

    I have roughed it out so that the pieces fit on a couple of sheet of 1200 x 600 x 15mm PLY

    I have noticed that I can find a larger range of sheet sizes in 12mm thick PLY. This would reduce cost and wastage.

    Does anyone out there think that there would be any fundamental reason why I couldnt use 12,mm thick for such a project?? More chance of warping? Less likely for screwing together?

    Just want to make sure that there is nothing that I am overlooking!

    The overall table size will be 1200mm x 600mm x 400mm

    Image attached (if it worked)

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Hell with fluro lighting
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    Default

    what sort of trains?

    Thomas (wooden or plastic)
    Electric (HO, N or such)?

    This will make a difference.

    The thomas ones can get away with a pretty flimsy top (See the comercial ones), but the Electric trains will need a firmer base.

    I have two tables here, both were made from old single beds (to give ou an idea). The first one I inserted a 12mm melamine veneered top. I can stand on it and it wont bend, we use that for the electric trains as they require a more solid base.

    The second table was one that came with draws in the base, so it had a 3ply, plywood top alread that the matress sat on (with two batterns under from memory). I left that in place, and it is used for the wooden thomas stuff. It has been used and abused for the last 2.5 - 3 years, with no sign of saging.
    I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

    My Other Toys

  4. #3
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    May 2009
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    Default

    Thanks Gra!

    The train set used iwill be a Thomas Wooden style.

    Was more concerned that there could be a noticeable difference between 12mm & 15mm PLY for the sides & ends of the table.

    Hoping that I can get away with some basic blocks fastened to the inside of the surrounds that will work to locate the inserted track base.

    If I can manage it, I would like to support the inserted track base around the perimeter in a way that it allows me to have it reversable. One side train track, the other side road & markings for matchbox cars.


  5. #4
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    What you could do is instead of using blocks at places around the table, run a bead of you ply around the nside perimiter, this would give it support and would also double the tickness of your frame at that point, so it would strengthen the frame at the same time.

    15mm would always be stronger, but it you look at the commercial ones, its about 10mm. If you can afford the extra go the 15mm, you can never make kids toys too strong. The weight difference shouldnt be that much either.

    PS one of mine is solid 19mm timber (dont try and lift it), and the other is 15mm timber skeleton covered with 3mm veneer to make it look solid
    I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

    My Other Toys

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Grange, Brisbane
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    I built mine to cope with me standing on it. I figure at some point one or more of them will decide to turn it into a dance floor! I think mine's 15mm.
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    kiama
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    Don't know how much trouble or expence you want to go to but maybe its worth thinking about this.

    I built a Thomas set for the grandson but I made it a box. Instead of legs with a board on top I built a box the same dimentions. I then cut it around the middle to make a lid and put the track base inside the box. The box was 1/2" ply the board MDF.

    I fitted wheels to the base and used some green carpet ( out door carpet from Bunnings- though anything or nothing would work) on top of the lid so it was a plain base to play on.

    When its packed up the lid is on the top and you can move it around on the castors.
    Take the lid off and tip it over and place the bottom on the upturned top and you have an open track to play on that won't move around. The top stops it getting used or dirty if you want to store it away.

    I also put in two drawers in the base section so the trains can be packed away if not wanted. Seems like there is always more trains than one can use that the kids collect.

    I have since added to the box as "Cars" the movie meant next Christmas Lighning Mc Queen was the go. I made a section to fit ( about 9' high) in the middle so the lid could also cover it and then made a new board with the town of Radiator Springs on one side and the racetrack on the other side. It all packs up into a box 1200x 900 x 600 high. By making a set of legs that attach to the insert you can have Thomas and the Cars board out if you like. The legs fit into space besides the drawers.

    Kids play with it constantly, and when the rough kids come over it only takes a few seconds to pull the lid from underneath and place it over the top securing all the bits inside.

    Then the daughter had a girl so next was a dolls house - another story.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Sydney
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    My husband made our children one. My first advice is make it very, very sturdy, my 15 month currently stands on ours ( We have also found our 3 yr old son and his friend sitting on it. We actually bought the proper Thomas board and my husband made the frame and also a drawer which pulls out for the trains. Luckily he dropped it down a little so little one's fingers don't get stuck. It is also sturdy as my 10 kg 15 month old likes to sit in it.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Melbourne Eastern Suburbs
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    Thanks for all the help & advice on this one everybody.

    After a busy couple of weeks, I am hoping to get started on it over the weekend. I may even get some of the basic cuts done by the ply supplier.

    On the subject of finishing, does anyone have any recommendations? Thinking about finishing it in a basic white but unsure the best way to go prep & sealing wise?

    Any thoughts??

  10. #9
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    Jan 2007
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    Mine lives on the deck which has a roof, but still takes rain, hail and sun, so I treated it as an outdoor toy and used house paint - Solaguard which is self priming, but to reduce the risk of water entering any micro holes, I put on two coats of undercoat (PSU I think).
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  11. #10
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    May 2009
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    Default

    Hi All,

    Well, I headed off to my local Bunnings over the weekend excited about my new project!

    After a week or so of solid preparation, sizing & plan layouts etc etc I came away totally disappointed!

    Through nievety, ignorance, stupidity, or a combination of all, I totally didnt comprehend how warped & buckled 15mm PLY would be?!! I couldnt find a sheet that I felt had anything near the quality for this project.......

    Is there something I am overlooking? ie. not going to a specialist supplier? Or was I just foolish in thinking I could find a cheap quality ply product?

    I am now seriously thinking about purchasing some cheap pine & cobbling something up that way.

  12. #11
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    I bought the ply from Bretts which is a local hardware and timber merchant. It was pretty wobbly but better than Bunnings stuff usually is. Generally when I'm working with ply I don't expect it to be straight, so I plan to try and pull it back into line when I'm designing, or live with it... Once you've cut it up, there's less warp than a full sheet, and it'll have a grain, so check that before you work out your cuts.

    Final thought - a single bow in one direction is fine, more than one buckle isn't. A single bow in both directions can be ok, but try to avoid it. Don't accept any sheets where the layers have come apart.
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

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