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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
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    Drop Bear Capital of Gippsland (Lang Lang) Vic Australia
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    Around here somewhere I have a 1930's book of caravan plans, now, I haven't built one but I have repaired a couple of horse floats and I have repalced floors and tailgate ramps with ply.
    I have used marine grade ply and I believe the difference is the integrity of the layers, no holes, cracks, joins or other flaws which helps achieve a uniform finish with added strength.
    The second factor is the adhesive which is water resistant (not proof) which attributes to the longevity of the product.
    When I used 1" ply for the floor I used the black stuff, I think that is exterior grade, and painted it with a thick rubbery material as horses do two things as soon as they get on board, and possibly repeat the performance during the trip, the tailgate was replace with marine ply, sealed with diluted PVA glue and then painted and had rubber strips attached.
    For a caravan I would use a marine grade ply, seal and paint.
    Todays caravans are still made of ply and hardwood frames, stapled together, they look as rough as guts until the pretty exterior aluminium sheet goes on and the window frames go in, the interior ply is generally a veneered (plastic) woodgrain or similar finish.
    Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
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    8,175

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Dingo View Post
    Now... I was further thinking... while I tend to agree with the comment that such as GlenL has over worked these things... they are at the same time only plans did I bloody say that??? only plans??? strewth Shane!! ... but I must continue... no seriously I must!!!... And so as such the internals can be fiddled with changed around and made to suit ones needs... the timbers used in the plans from that site are such as Sitka Spruce, Oregon and other light US timbers with heavier timbers being such as Mahogany... nothing whatever as on the heavy weight side as our own Jarrah or others... so what could be termed over designed due to the use of heavy timbers is just so much codswollop in my opinion since their timbers dont come near our own... and as said one can use whatever timber one chooses to build it with... no??

    We agree? goodoh ol son!
    'Course we don't agree Shane!

    The use of lightweight timbers is a given (radiata here BTW!), it's the size of the scantlings that are commonly used. Both of the plans for campers that I've seen (as opposed to teardrop plans which generally have it sussed) are built like houses, with 2x4 studs.

    We have a whole different engineering dynamic with a van, and I'm no expert, not by a long shot, but all we need to do is build a tea chest and put a door or two in it.

    Modern Caravans do it, and a home builder can improve by miles using composite construction methods and basic materials... all you need to do is use two really light skins, and something to keep them apart... done really. I reckon insulating foam would do it admirably too, with a minimum of framing, but there you go.

    cheers,

    P

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
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    62
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    5,639

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    Shane,
    Midge has got it right (again, why is it that we agree on so much?), those plans are overengineered by todays standards and avaiable technologies. To liken it to boat building, those plans would have you build your little dinghy with a heavy clinker hull whilst it's now possible due to modern glues to make a hull the same size that's much lighter, stronger and quicker to build.

    Wandered into a local manufacturer of mobile homes/campervans a few years ago as I'd just been burnt for a few grand on a job and thought I might work for someone for a change. They were making a lot of their stuff in foam sandwich construction, very light and strong. Like midge said, just two skins with something to keep them apart. They weren't offering enough money for my liking so I didn't end up working for them, but that's another story.

    I'm thinking sandwich panel: ply/foam/ply, bonded with polyurethane glue. I reckon I can glue up large panels on the shed floor by laying down the bottom sheet, applying glue, placing foam, applying glue to the 2nd piece of ply and fitting and then placing besser blocks all over the sandwich to provide the neccesary clamping. There will be timber battens already glued in place on the bottom sheet, right around the perimeter and others placed for any other required fixings. I'll probably use white coated cabinet backing ply for the interior, it's about 4mm and coated with what looks and smells like white gelcoat. For the exterior I haven't yet made up my mind. I do have a couple of rolls of woven glass and I was thinking of using very thin ply on the exterior and completely glassing the it once it's assembled, both for strength and for waterproofing.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    willagee wa (near Freo)
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    60
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    248

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    Quote Originally Posted by journeyman Mick View Post
    Shane,



    For the exterior I haven't yet made up my mind. I do have a couple of rolls of woven glass and I was thinking of using very thin ply on the exterior and completely glassing the it once it's assembled, both for strength and for waterproofing.

    Mick

    mick why wouldnt ya use marine ply as the outside skin? at least ya would only have to paint it after ward and not mess around with fibreglass.
    just wondering, phil

    ps. surfer boy morgans in bibra lake sell plywoods and timber
    First On Race Day



    And the first brock trophy goes to...............
    and we got no "2" as well
    A FORD driver.

    ironic isnt it?

    and if ya cant win on ya own merit punt em off!!!
    holden cheater team!!!!!

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Australia and France
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    I reckon you're spot on the money Mick.

    I'd use the glass (over thin ply) to give a little more durabilty and dare I say it, puncture resistance. Now I know there are some on a particular boating forum who will choke on their Easter Eggs reading those words from Moi, but one of the differences between lightweight dinghy hulls and caravans is the momentum behind any collision with overhanging trees etc.

    Large flat panels are really easy to lay up and fair, so I'd be with you all the way.

    Another way is simply to adhere sheets of prefinished glass to the ply. I don't know where to get it buy Reiner Gudd does retail it at http://www.trikesaustralia.com/teardrop/

    Cheers,

    P

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
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    I dont think you would have too much problem getting a "plywood" caravan up to spec.
    Afterall its only a trailer....... especialy if you can keep it under 1000kg GVM.

    the question is..... wil it be a plywood (structured) caravan or more a plywood formed "fibreglass" caravan.

    From my understanding the best way to get the strength is in combination with light weight is the timber and plywood framed fibrglass clad method.

    I don't think anybody sensible would argue that the chasis should be conventional tubular steel.

    with the modern electric brakes and some carefull consideration about weight. it should be possible to poduce a reasonaly light, strong and towable unit.

    One of the big concerns is to keep the superstructure light and the weight low otherwise you will have to change your name to "Noddy".

    Now if you are building a timber caravan for the fun of it..... you have to use curved laminated ribs somewhere..... I still remember the jig for making the laminated ribs for the roof of the old mans creation.
    He called it the "banana bender".

    the other thing is that these caravans were usualy simple affairs..... not these enormous multiwheeled condominiums that people call caravans now.
    the kitchen facilities often didnt exist or they were on the outside of the caravan. Showers, toilets, dining tables inside.... bah humbug.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    perth
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    this is the old ply coming off

    (an earlier posting shows the caravan before the demolition started)



    this is the condition of the original ply on the roof


  9. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
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    AHH the old moisture under the edge moulding trick.

    Thats wahy I recon the way to go is to glass over the lot and forget the edge mouldings.

    If you must use mouldings..... one word....... "sicaflex".

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Darling Downs West Aus
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    57
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    460

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    cute van,. what are you towing it with?
    would look great behind an old FB holden (or an XM ford if you are that way inclined)
    ____________________________
    Craig
    Saving a tree from woodchippng is like peeing in the pool;
    you get a warm feeling for a while but nobody notices.

  11. #25
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    Apr 2007
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    perth
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  12. #26
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    Apr 2007
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    My 1958 FC Holden we will be towing the caravan with. I hope to have the van finished by Easter 2008 to drive across the Nullabor to attend the national vintage caravan get together and the FE,FC Holden Nationals (The FCs 50th Anniversary) The wagons modified, 202 motor ,disc brakes etc.

    Picked up the plywood from Morgans,
    4mm Imported Marine Ply, 5ply Pacific Maple, B.B.A Bond/WPS on label (and some 6mm to do some other repairs)

    Now I've got to figure out making it all weatherproof and making it look pretty ( Bondcrete, Sicaflex and a good exterior paint )


  13. #27
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    Jan 2007
    Location
    Grafton NSW
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    14

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    Wow, must be the quietest thread on the forum.....

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    Hunter Valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregory View Post
    Wow, must be the quietest thread on the forum.....
    It's over 11 years old... how did you even find it? O.o

  15. #29
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    Jan 2007
    Location
    Grafton NSW
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    14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight Man View Post
    It's over 11 years old... how did you even find it? O.o
    lol..... Googled Australian Plywood Caravans, and this page came up.. Just bought a CD of old plywood caravan plans...

  16. #30
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    Aug 2011
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    The main difference between structural and marine grade plywood is the timber specie. Marine grade ply is manufactured from marine borer resistant timbers. The glue is the same in both. Therefore, unless you are intending to use your caravan as a submarine, there is little reason to go to the expense of marine ply. A lightweight timber with anti rot properties makes the best frame. These days that would include treated Radiata, but my favourite is Aust Red Cedar, if you can find it at a reasonable price.
    When it comes to joining, I prefer to retain flexibility where ever possible, particularly at ply to ply abutments. There are plenty of good quality flex sealants on the market these days. Factor in UV stabilization when making the choice. Gusset frame joints where ever possible for added strength.

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