Thread: Potentially troublesome breadboard end

I've got a hall bench seat I'm working on and the plans (AU Woodsmith #114) ask for a seat that is 1145 long. The self-milled Elm that I'm using is only 1055 long and I'm thinking of putting some 45mm wide breadboard ends on it to get the length needed as I think 90mm might be a bit too much to lose...maybe...

The specific problem I'm facing here is that the seat needs notches cut out of each corner and a groove between them for a tenon on the sides underneath it.

I was planning to loose Domino the ends on (with one secure glued in the middle and two outer ones sitting "loose" in oversized mortises on the end piece, and without dowel pins) but I'm a tad concerned about the strength of the end joints, once the groove has been cut. For those without the magazine plans, there is a back rail that supports the width of the seat and a "kind of support" in the middle for the two drawers that are under the seat.

Naturally I'd be offsetting/balancing the Dominos into the meatiest part of the ends and don't expect to be cutting into them when doing the groove.

What do you more experienced folks think of the first image attachment (where there is a 7mm wide full length piece of the breadboard) compared to the second attachment where there isn't (and I lose an acceptable 14mm from the total seat width)?

Would one be weaker than the other, or be a less effective joint in itself as well as assisting in controlling the seasonal movement of the timber of the entire seat?

I'm tending toward the second attachment myself as the 7mm of the ends won't be seen at the front of the bench and the glue line will batch where the upper legs/arm rests are going.