Thread: Power tools for new work shop?

Santalum,

I'm six months down the track from where you are now.............. As with all things personal its about horses for courses and your likely to get different answers from all of us. However you will find some commonalities from all our responses. Perhaps do a search cause I'm sure this topic's already been done a few times.....but for what its worth here's my 2c worth:

When I began buying tools I found this article a great one to read:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=16352

I won't go into buy this that but i'll let you know what I have found to be my most worthwhile and satisfying buys:

Dispite some of the rhetoric round here about woodworking measuring and tolerances.............For me what I have found is that MArking out is one of the most important aspects of woodworking. If you get it right and are able to repeat accurate marking out in my opionion half the battles won!

I love the range of incra marking out and measuring tools and I find there always the ones I reach out for for accuracy......................Veritas shoulder squares are also real handy for marking out round corners.

As always a good set a chisels that hold a edge and a decent sharpening stone............a must n really handy. A Decent straight edge and a router plumeted my woodworking into a new dimension. N the first big buy I bought was a drill press.

N Clamps clamps n more clamps!!

At this stage the power tools and machinery I own include:

Drill press
Router
Circular Saw
Cordless Drill

My next purchase is going to be an EZ Smartguide system.....................I won't get into buying a tablesaw jointer etc until I can make money out of my woodworking........................Hope this Helps

REgrads Lou

All in all i would get a good tablesaw, router and drill then take it from there and buy other tools as you need them.

Hi Jon

I would say that the first priority is to be able to cut straight and accurately. For this reason I'd put my money on a tablesaw. You do not need the biggest in the world, but something with at least 1-1/2 HP, a 10" blade, a cast iron table top, and a decent fence. Expect to pay about $700 - $900. I would not skimp much here since one does not replace a tablesaw lightly, and they are generally with you for many years.

The alternative to a tablesaw is a bandsaw, but I would not go this route unless you are competent at straightening edges, such as with a hand- or power plane. They are useful tools - and can become the heart of a workshop - but they do not produce the repeatable results like a tablesaw can. Safer though.

I would also steer you away from a Sliding (or fixed) Compound Mitre Saw (SCMS) since the only ones that are accurate enough for joinery are very expensive ($1000+), and you can do all the important cuts on a tablesaw with a homemade Sled (plans for jigs are available on this forum).

The drill press, while another vital tool in the advanced workshop, is a luxury if funds are limited, and I would rather use a jig on a decent drill/driver (which you need anyway). If you are buying your first drill, get something around 18v to give you the power (I have a Panasonic 15.6v, which is fantastic but pricey). If you already have this, then go for the drill press. There are many things you can do with a good DP, such as joinery, and they are not expensive ($300 - $500).

The router is a extremely versatile tool that you can use to edge joint, cut moulding, and do a multitude of joints. It can be hand held or built into a table (and you will use in both ways). A decent entry level 2 HP plunge router can be had for around $100 (such as a GMC). Many have more than one router (I have 4), and they have tendency to breed like my collection of handplanes. Note - don't get smaller than 2 HP if you intend to use it in a router table.

Last words: Get the best basic set up you can afford. Put off purchases until later if the compromise is likely to be regretted at a later date (just because something is cheap does not mean it is no good - there are some great buys around - but be wary of buying something just because it is cheap). You can build jigs to transform all the above into a multitude of tools and uses, which is expected by every woodworker.

Regards from Perth

Derek

NewLou is dead right about horses for courses.
Everyone finds they use certain tools far more than others.
Many swear by a bandsaw as being indispensible because you can rip, crosscut and follow shapes with one.
I bought a fairly cheap bandsaw and have only used it a few times.
My first major workshop tool was a table saw which I have used a great deal.
I had a mitre saw and used it more than expected and later bought a sliding mitre saw with depth stop.
This has become the most used tool in the workshop and now I wonder how I ever got by without it, the original mitre saw has been relegated to under a bench since using the sliding model.
I used hand tools only for many years with the only power tools a hand drill and sander.
I think good hand tools are a must especially on restoration work.
Planes, chisels and saws etc will last a lifetime.
Whatever tools you buy always try to get the best you can afford.
They will repay you tenfold.

Router, circular saw, drill press...you will want to upgrade to a table saw in the near future, but consider a thicknesser before that. You can still use your circular (and jigs) for ripping and your router/handplane for jointing, but a thicknesser gives you the freedom to turn refuse timber into useable stock. Can't do woodwork without wood.

I have access to a thicknesser at work and still a unit for home use is high on my wishlist...along with a bandsaw, decent dust extraction...(make the dusty a priority!! Lungs ain't cheap!!). Get a good belt sander and ROS. You can skimp on other stuff if you're not sure you'll get the use out of them, but not the finishing gear.

Other than that I think it's all been said before, and better. Have a good one.
regards,
Rusty.

fridge,
radio
coffe cup
phone
picture of boat
girlie calendar
clock

Originally Posted by Santalum

The question is what are the cant do without power tools versus the nice to have but seldom used tools.

A good workshop has at least one of every power tool and extra drills and routers.

You cant do without any and seldom used ones are worth their weight in gold when you actually need them.


Peter.

Thanks to all for your helpful comments, certainly food for thought.

Hi Santalum

Don't forget - Space for the tools and wood both storage and when using them.
A good workable layout - don't attach large power tools to the floor until you are happy with your layout, or if possible, tools on wheels that have brakes.

My essential tools at present are the saws - power and hand, and my drill.

Have fun filling your shed.

Cheers
RufflyRustic

My 3 must haves....

jointer/thicknesser
tablesaw
router and router table

Unless you've got plenty of money, you need the jointer/thickness to go and scavenge recycled timber or rough sawn timber.

Even if your willing to buy DAR wood, you will often find it is twisted or bowed. So unless you are wanting to straighten it by hand, you need a jointer and thicknesser to get your wood straight and square.

If your timber isn't straight and square, you might as well give up now

Secondly, tablesaw as per Dereks reasons. However the bandsaw is better if you need to saw thick planks down to size.

Router. I use this for a lot of things, to cutting mortice and tenons, dovetails, trenches and your standard router work. A wonderfully versatile machine. It helps if you have a good router table, this is where I am having som trouble though The Triton router is fantastic, the table I am finding not so good.

Thats my 2 cents from someone who has just recently set up shop.

RB

I bought this book (Your First Workshop : A Practical Guide to What You Really Need (Getting Started in Woodworking) (Paperback)) recently from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books and it covers what you want plus more and I would highly recommend it.

Cheers

G'day Santalum,

One of the most used tools I have is a drop saw with it's own fence. Invaluable.

Can't wait to get up to Brisbane to bring down my bandsaw and thicknesser.

Ditto to everyone else's comment - horses for courses. It depends what you have already, and also on how much space you have. A workshop is not something you just buy - it's something that evolves as you work. Occasionaly, you get the chance to completely reinvent your workshop, but it's always based on what you've done before. You learn how to use each tool as you get it, and you slowly learn what's missing, and what tasks would be nice to electrify.

What quality tools you buy depends on your budget, and your planned use. If you are going to be doing woodwork every weeknight and all weekend, get trade quality tools. If you are only an occasional enthusiast, brand-name home workshop tools are fine.

In terms of recommendations, it might help if you say what you already have, and what you don't have.

The basics would of course be somewhere to work, with a good light (does this count as a power tool?), and a good work bench. Beyond that, almost no tools are necessary, but some tools are incredibly useful. You haven't asked about hand-tools, so I won't talk about them, but here's my list of power tools...

1) Power drill - I would rate a power drill as far and away the number 1 power tool. Any saws, sanders, blah blah blah can all be done by hand, particularly when you are starting out. But drilling - get a power drill and a good full set of bits. Some people swear by cordless drills. Personally, I'd rather have a plug-in drill with an extension lead. Maybe it's because I had a crappy cordless drill years ago, and I was never happy with it. If you get a cordless drill, get a good one, with two battery packs, and always recharge the spare battery as soon as you swap over. Otherwise you'll always be waiting for it to recharge.

Beyond the drill, it comes down to what you do. My favourite tool is always the one I've most recently purchased, because it's the one I appreciate the most. Anyway, the list continues...

2) For furniture restoration, you will find an orbital sander very handy, as sanding and refinishing will be a big task.

3) Dust extractor. For a start-out workshop, you may not want to go into this right away, but once you start getting 3 or 4 power tools that can hook up to an extractor, you will want one. If you can work outside in a well ventilated area, you might decide not to get an extractor right away. I've got an old vacuum cleaner hooked up to a triton tub. It's all that will fit in my workshop. The vacuum in noisy, but then so are most of my tools. It does the job.

4) Band saw/table saw/mitre saw. These are all great. I'd probably put a table saw in the must-haves, and the others in the nice-to-have. I have a circular saw mounted under a bench, but it's not great, and proper table saws are quite cheap. Mitre saw's need a bit of space to setup. Bandsaws are also very handy. These saws overlap in function, and any of them can be replaced by a handsaw and a bit of sweat. Work out what you use your handsaws for, and then decide what type of saws will be useful for you. If you cut a lot of panels, ripping, cross-cuts, mortice joints and rebates, get a table saw. For more precise cross-cuts or angled cross-cuts, get a mitresaw. For ripping or curved work, use a band-saw (or a jig-saw - see further down).

5) Bench grinder - to sharpen all your hand tools. If you don't have this, you aren't getting full use from your hand tools. Maybe some jobs you are looking to power tools where good shapr hand-tools will do the job.

Beyond that, you get the nice to haves.
6) Jig saw - I would almost put this in the have-to-have, but to be honest, you don't have to have it. Other saws can do most jobs, but a jig saw is very handy.
7) Router - I'll probably get shot down for this, but you can do without a router. It makes nice edges on things, but you don't NEED it. Yes, I know, they are also good for various joints, but you can often use a table saw for large joints, and small joints can be done by hand. If you do a lot of jointing, especially dovetails, then the router would be in the must-haves, but not for odd jobs and furniture restoration.
8) Electric plane - Nice for fixing up saw cuts that you didn't quite get right the first time. Not good for finishing work, so you'll still need a good hand plane, or if you just love wood dust, just sand everything smooth.
9) Drill press - nice for drilling vertical holes, but nothing you can't do with a normal drill. You can get lots of wierd and wonderful attachments for pedestral drills, like morticers, and planing bits, but these aren't worth thinking about until you already have the drill.

Well, that's my 2 cents. (or maybe I spent more than that...)

Surfdabbler

I think that is a great post!

Regards from Perth

Derek