View Poll Results: Powerbook/Laptop Stand Useful?
- Voters
- 5. You may not vote on this poll
-
Too simple?
0 0% -
Too verbose?
3 60.00% -
Just Right.
2 40.00% -
Teaching grandfather to suck.
0 0%
Thread: Powerbook/Laptop Stand
-
18th February 2007, 12:34 PM #1
Powerbook/Laptop Stand
Making a simple, comfortable Powerbook Stand
Have you ever noticed the variety of contraptions people use in offices and at home to get their computer monitor to the “correct” height? Apart from the telephone books and bricks there are the commercial models with large Heath Robinson metallic frames and swinging arms like dockyard cranes. There are desks with all manner of hydraulics which could double as hoists on aircraft carriers, and there are the petite curvy clear plastic jobs which look as if they should be holding a pavlova or something. Recently I saw a moulded plastic job but found it soulless and very black.
I have often looked at my powerbook and wondered how things could be better. So this is what happened when I decided to make a stand recently…
I propped up the PB with various books and pieces of wood so that the screen was where OH&S experts suggest. The top of the screen is at eye height, so you can keep a straight neck. I needed to allow for a fan powered cooler which sits underneath my PB and raises it 25 mm. The front of the PB and the keys were sloped down at an angle which I estimated was good for shedding dust and one which the open PB would allow without breaking its hinge. The screen is almost vertical. Then I measured the front height of the PB 150mm and the back height 250mm. This would give me the height of the back and front legs if I subtracted the thicknesses of the base, the fan cooler and the PB itself.
The power book is 325 mm long and 240 deep and 25 mm thick. So I chose a piece of wood to those dimensions plus allowing a little more for the front which would take the pegs. The base piece of maple happened to be 30mm thick, just because I had a piece of scrap that size and it looked agreeable. I rounded the front edge rather than have a square front.
Next I cut the legs from a piece of scrap 80mm by 25mm. To do this I marked out on a piece of ply wood (story board) the front and back heights of the stand and measured the angle of slant with a protractor at 32 degrees from the horizontal. I set the protractor on my saw bench to that angle and cut each leg on the angle before cutting off the other end of the leg, the right angle, at the correct length. So now there were five pieces, four legs and a top.
Turning the top upside down I placed the legs where I thought they ought to be keeping them the same distance from the edges of the top piece and parallel. I then drilled holes from the lower side and countersunk the top of the holes to take the screws which would hold the legs. After much fiddling and frustration I realized I had to attach the back longer legs first, to give me something from which to work in placing the shorter legs. Others may have much more professional ways of doing this, than this wannabe craftsman.
By moving the front legs until the whole lot was stable I was able to fix them in position without legs being of different “heights”. I fixed the legs with two screws each from the top side of the stand.
Then I had to provide ways to stop the PB sliding down the sloping top. Not only the PB, but also the fan cooling base. So I fixed 12.5 mm (1/2 inch) dowels at the bottom of the slope. One 20mm dowel sits under the PB and restrains the centre of the cooling base. Two others stop the PB itself from sliding. The dowel on the left is 80mm from the left edge of the PB. The dowel on the right is 145mm (centre measurement) from the right side of the PB. This allows access to the slot for discs in the front of the PB.
After a try out I found I had to adjust the heights of the dowel pegs to 40mm to allow for the added height of the cooling base. Then three coats of clear Cabot’s Crystal Clear water based interior coating, with a mild sanding between coats.
When I installed the stand I tidied up the various leads and the USB hub which I attached to the back leg with a cable tie. The external hard drive and the toggle for the wireless mouse also sit under the stand with cables furled and tied with cable ties also. Generally the PB is easier to use and there is less clutter on the desk.Last edited by Michael Breen; 18th February 2007 at 04:32 PM. Reason: Adding Pictures
-
18th February 2007 12:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
18th February 2007, 12:49 PM #2.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,792
Michael,
They say a picture saves a 1000 words, or in your case at least 785!
Cheers
-
18th February 2007, 12:59 PM #3
791......... great typing practise
-
18th February 2007, 01:20 PM #4
Pictures and 1000 words
Lads, I'm trying to attach two shots of the job. No luck so far. Any suggestions?
Cheers,
Michael
-
18th February 2007, 01:27 PM #5
-
18th February 2007, 04:33 PM #6
Thanks and have another look
Thanks DJ-It took me a while, but there are now photos.
Michael
-
18th February 2007, 06:52 PM #7
Nice solution. I recently bought a separate monitor for my laptop, which I want to mount above the laptop screen. My laptop just sits on my desk - I don't mind the low screen height, and I work for myself, so I can ignore OHS at my leisure! So I found a cardboard box that is almost the right height. But then I thought I would make a wooden box for it - the perfect height and then if ever my computer arrangements change I will be left with a useful and attractive box. Got a nice big chunk of bluegum for it, but haven't made it yet....
Bob C.
Never give up.
-
18th February 2007, 07:50 PM #8
G'day Michael,
As you're on a Mac you probably (maybe) have PhotoShop. Open your pic, resize the shot to 80%, hit shift-option-apple and S together and this will save it for the web and you're right to go.
-
18th February 2007, 09:10 PM #9
I am of the view that most monitor stands put the monitor far too high. By the look of it this one included. Great job on the construction though. I believe the top of the monitor should be just above eye height, minimizing neck and back strain. These sites all agree with me:
http://www.healthycomputing.com/office/setup/monitor/
http://www.ergoindemand.com/monitor-...ergonomics.htm
http://www.office-ergo.com/setting.htm
-
19th February 2007, 01:00 AM #10
-
19th February 2007, 12:18 PM #11
Great idea and nice work Michael, I've just bought my first notebook so any ideas are worth noting.
-
25th February 2007, 02:56 PM #12
-
25th February 2007, 05:17 PM #13Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- Katy, Texas
- Posts
- 25
It looks to me like you could park a lorrey full of Powerbooks on top of that stand. I think the thickness of the wood takes away from the design. JMHO of course.
-
27th February 2007, 04:38 PM #14rrich Guest
Oh Michael,
Digital Blasphemy!
You are now on both Bill Gates' and Steve Jobs' hit list! A Microsoft mouse and keyboard on an Apple Powerbook indeed!
-
28th February 2007, 11:07 AM #15
Similar Threads
-
Making a new Stand
By Stu in Tokyo in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 25Last Post: 4th June 2008, 11:43 AM -
show us ya' stand
By Twinnie in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 11Last Post: 12th January 2007, 03:55 PM -
Using the ETA300 Extension Table with the RSA300 Router Stand
By princhester in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 1Last Post: 3rd October 2005, 03:23 AM -
Timber deck for rainwater tank stand
By toyospares in forum TIMBERReplies: 8Last Post: 8th August 2003, 12:09 AM -
The latest Triton Router Stand RSA300
By barrysumpter in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 2Last Post: 16th December 2001, 08:02 AM