Thread: My first 'big' project - Carriage style barn doors

I don't like the idea of screwing something like this together . The bracing will help it out for a while . I don't think they would be looking to good at all in ten years though. You'll be needing to replace them. The entire doors.
A good traditional pair of doors like this should last 50 to 80 years , possibly 100.
Part of this lasting ability is the joinery, the other part is the timber used.
Screwed wont do that at all .
The right timber and traditional joinery will.


Rob

Forget the mitre joint as shown in your pictures along with all the kreg and biscuit type joints. The only suitable and satisfactory type of joint that will last a lifetime is the mortise and tenon joints used on the rails (horizontal member) and stiles (vertical member).

what Auscab and Rod1949 said

anything else and your wasting your time and timber

Hello EF
I like the design and how you have thought about the features are looking for.

The cross braces should provide a deal of strength. It is a lot of cross bracing since each door is about 1M wide. Please remember that the more joins you have the potential increases for joint failure increases too.

What is said above about M&T joints is spot on ... will definitely give the best results.

I would also mention using half laps on the middle rails and on the cross joints too ..... and using fixings (screws) between the cross braces and the panels to make the front paneling part of the structure

I would also thing about 3 hinges per side rather than 2.

The links to Bunnings dont show me the products you are choosing ... just the search pages. So I dont know what the V groove specs are ... but if it is a solid grooved panel suitable for external use that should be OK

I would also consider to seal and finish before final assembly, and then the final coat after assembly too.

If you are not confident with M&T jpints (sloppy M&T will very much weaken the join) I would look at half laps or bridles (glued and screwed). These are sometimes a lot easier ... but definitely not pocket screws and mitres for doors.

Good luck ... put up some pics as you go.

Regards

Rob

Thanks for the reply guys. Unfortunately I don't think I'm at a level yet for M&T joints - can't wait to be but still a while to go.

Rob, thanks for the alternative regarding half laps or bridles, that's something I'll definitely look at.

And yes, I'll post pics when done

Originally Posted by ian

what Auscab and Rod1949 said

anything else and your wasting your time and timber

+ 1

Originally Posted by cava

+ 1

You are probably 100% correct for precision M&T joints.

Take a look at this http://compare mortice and tennon to half lap joints

So for a novice with limited tools I would still recommend half laps as they are much easier to perfect and stronger too.

Just my opinion in this situation given that they are 1M wide doors with substantial bracings

Regards

Rob

Originally Posted by efleming

Long time lurker here. I was hoping for some advice on my first big project which is by no means amazing to the expeirenced people on here but is something i'd like to get some advice on.

We're commencing building on a weatherboard clad detached garage and to give it an extra bit of spark, wanted some nice looking garage doors. After getting quotes on federation style garage doors which made my eyes bleed, I decided to go the DIY route.

Now, I should say a few things. I'm not a perfectionist and nor do I have endless amounts of money so no doubt my design is subpar in areas - but if you think there's some improvemenst that can be made without costing the earth, i'm all years. Tools I have are a mitre saw and table saw - i do not have a biscuit cutter/joiner at this stage.

The back or frame of the door is going to be 90x35 structural pine. This is the biggest sacrifice i've made - structural hardwood would probably break the bank. Yes, the pine is ugly and yes, it's not designed for exposure to the weather but unless I leave the doors open and it rains, they'll never get wet.

On the front of the doors I'm going to use some door jambs with a 12mm rebate which are able to be exposed to the elements (see here). Then, some V groove lining will fit snugly under the rebates and act as the skin for the majority of the door (see here). I'll make some cedar framed windows to go up top and spend a bit of money on some quality hinges to finish the job.

All up, I think a pair of doors (about 2m in width all up) will cost $577 - excluding paint, varnish and ancillaries such as glue and screws.

My major questoins are on how to bolt this all together. For the pine frame, i was going to just use glue and pocket screws (via the Kreg jig). Again for the edge of the front of the doors, pocket screws and probably some screws drilled in horizontally from the back of the door through the pine. Everything else will be glue and brad nails.

Love to hear some thoughts. Oh, and any suggestions on a nice hardwood for the door jambs? I was just going to use some structure hardwood from Boral (such as this) but would be up for any suggestions.

Carriage Doors Back.jpgCarriage Doors Edge.jpgCarriage Doors Frame.jpgCarriage Doors Front.jpgCarriage Doors Lining.jpg

Hi, some questions for you

when you say a pair of doors about 2m wide -- is this the gap through which you will be driving a car or SUV? If yes, you may wish to increase the opening to around 2.4 to 2.5 m. A Commodore is around 1.9 m wide EXCLUDING the mirrors, so even a 2.3 m opening will appear a very tight fit. (My car is 2.1 m wide mirror to mirror)

When building your doors, don't forget to allow for the thickness of the doors when working out the required opening.

Thanks Ian and yes, I had realised that as well - going to enlarge them to 2.1 wide. Not ideal but it'll have to do.

Originally Posted by efleming

Thanks Ian and yes, I had realised that as well - going to enlarge them to 2.1 wide. Not ideal but it'll have to do.

With such a narrow opening for a car, will it affect the future sale-ability of your property when/if you decide to sell?

Originally Posted by efleming

Thanks Ian and yes, I had realised that as well - going to enlarge them to 2.1 wide. Not ideal but it'll have to do.

in that case you may wish to dispense with doors altogether.

Most drivers would be too intimidated to attempt to drive a mid-sized car through a 2.1 m wide opening -- based on a few examples, the typical lateral clearance -- through your proposed doors -- for a mid-sized car would be around 20mm. A VW Golf (2009 model) is 2.05 m wide, and 3.6 m with both front doors open.

Also, you may wish to consider that the "standard" single car garage is 3.2m wide.

Hi ef,
I sent a Private Message (PM) to you last night but now realise that you may not be aware of PM's?
If you go to 'notifications' right at the top of the page you will (hopefully) see that you have 1. Click on that and you should see that you have a PM and following the instructions will get you to that message?

fletty