Thread: radial arm saw

I doubt if anyone would recommend you removing the guard.

If you can't cut it with the guard on then chances are it is too big for your saw. Lining up the timber for cuts from both sides would be difficult also.

How about marking out the joint all around and cutting the joint to the maximum you can with the RAS, cut the rest with a handsaw and plane back using a block plane.

G'day Dean and welcome,
I also have a DeWalt PowerShop radial arm saw which is actually a rebadged Tatry out of Italy. Mine is a 10" saw blade which I have found to be good for my needs. I have not come up against your problem but I would be extremely reluctant to remove the complete metal saw guard to try and solve it. I have removed the retracting sliding plastic and metal guard which fully protects the blade [and your fingers] almost as soon as I got it many years ago and only have the 1/2 blade covered metal guard in place.
If this is what you mean by the guard then fine but be aware especially when you have finished your cut as your concentration needs to be on the saw not on the timber you have just cut.

If you follow the link you will see what I mean and you might find my angle cutting jig useful when cutting a few mitres.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...858#post298858

Hope this helps you out,
Regards,
Bob

Hi Dean,
It's obvious you are extending the limits of the saw. As suggetsed you can finish by hand cutting..a Japanese saw is good for this task.

Or....you could clamp the work, remove guard and proceed.....not a good idea,

or do it in two cuts by changing the piece over, provided you can get the accuracy.

Get a jig as Rob suggested.

Cheers,
conwood

I have the exact saw, dangerous enough if all the guards are in place, let alone w/o any of them. There is no reason why (if your saw is set up correctly) that you can't cut partial through and flip it over for finishing.

To profect the alignment of the two cuts. place a new surface for your table Glue a sheet of Masonite to the surface . Now that you have a clean surface and no extra kerf marks. Set the saw so that it only partially cuts the new surface, and cut a kerf line. Raise the arm so that the saw will cut half or more through your timber.

Cut one side, with the blade stopped, then flip over, Align the kerf of the timber with the kerf mark on your new surface, the second cut should follow the same path and make a matching cut.

Practice on a scrap or the very end of your timber to make sure that the arm is square, etc.

All this relys on your previous setting of the machine. There is no reason why that model of saw cannot be set to cut square and true. Have you checked it lately (most have not) If the answer is No, then it is time you did. Use those adjusting screw clamps that hold your fence top the table to tweak 90 degree adjustments. (are you aware that there is an adjustment under the name plate on the front of the motor? Remove the two phillips screws and see a large set screw that locks the head (only if the blade is not square to the table) most fellows don't know of this adjustment.

Clean and lube the ways under the Arm, that the saw motor rolls out on. When they are well cleaned and lubed they function better and prevent you jerking which sometimes ruins the cut.

I think you will do fine, I have cut many pieces larger than the capacity of my saw and have had success by flipping and resawing.

I missed an important aspect of your query... They are miter cuts. OOps. all I said is till true, but for another cut. As for the guard removal, I seem to remember that my guard clearance is about the same height as the Arbor nut so I don't see how removal would help as the nut would hinder your cut.

Can't you tilt the motor to 45 degrees and make the cut? That is one of the great features of the RAS in its ability to position itself in an array of configurations.

thanks
i did tilt it but it did not help.
if i had to make half the cut, how could i finish the cut of the easiest?
i really need to make a descent table with a proper guide.
my guide is screwed down so it didnt move(again!)
tried going to shops that sell these saws but that didnt help
is there anything new i can try?

Okay the density of my propensity is clearing up, I think.... You are cutting wide (panels, sheets, flat pieces) at 45 degrees for a mitered edge on a box affair?

I read your post again and your 770 is like but not the same as my 740 (Im much older ) but the rules are the same.

NT too sure if you can do this with your saw, in a safe manner. There is one procedure where you turn the powerhead to 90 degrees (ripping position) then tilt the blade to 45degrees and rip feed the wood through the saw. This is assanine to attempt although the procedure is reccommended by the manufacturer as possible. But I would not attempt such a procedure.

How far will your arm reach? Is that not far enough? 16"-18", I think Mine is. Have you other tools at your disposal? TS? Router Table? Joiner? Hand held circular saw? May have reached the limit of this saw.

my saw reaches to the end of my wood(length ways)
but its just that the guard gets in the way. the wood must be too thick for this saw, but its only 32mm thick. should be common for this saw to cut that thickness wood - seems stupid that it shouldnt. but what do i know
i do have a table saw, router, band saw and tables. the essentials(in my opinion) to start out.
just got irritated when i had already reached the capacity of the saw on its 5th cut! may just be that i dont know exactly what to do with the saw.

thanks for the help
much appreciated!

If you are using a 8 ". blade, use a 10 " instead. Shold be able to cut a 45 degree miter through 37 mm thick timber with no problem.

Hi

I am going to get flamed as usual but as far as I am concerned you can remove the guard if it makes things easier.
Before you do realize that the responsibility for your safety is yours and yours alone.
I have no guards on any machines in my workshop with the exception of my jointer and i have added the ability to lock that out of the way when needed.
I dont believe this is dangerous because i follow one simple rule .
DONT TOUCH THE SHARP BITS. Sounds stupid and simple but if you follow this rule you cant get hurt. I am of the opinion if a guard blocks vision of a cutting edge the it can increase your danger .
I have all my fingers both eyes and a healthy respect for the dangers of machinery of all types.
It is not the machine or the guard that determines safety it is the operator and his control of the job and the environment.

Ross