Thread: Re-sawing jig for bandsaw?

I like this design
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker...s/200008/main/
but I would make rotating disks on each end to roll the logs to any angle.
By the way there is a thread started by a Shane on resawing links. I had to do that because I stuffed up on the thread you started.
try here
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=20367

ahem... thanks Rod I knew Id posted that question before

Still neither are very clear are they... I mean Stu shows a board in front of his fence in a couple of pics yet in another theres a board under the log as well as against the fence... confusing

The woodworker one is similar to what Im after but it shows very little of the actual jig itself

That stack that Stu did is just a small token of what I have out there to do over the next few months so they can be stacked stickered and dried otherwise the buggars are gonna split and or stay too moist to be of use for a long time to come... so Im planning on making a start in about a months time and just keep going till theyre all done

Ive held that bloody monster blade Ive got for the resawing and mate I tell you I WANT NEED AND MUST HAVE a rock solid jig to hold the logs with I dont want that flamin blade anywhere near me!! its a seriously mean looking sucker! :eek:

I will have a long gander through the links you offered up mate... I read one of my "making jig" books last night and in it theres this pic of the bloke with a jig for resawing but the dopey buggar didnt go into making the flamin thing! Real solid looking thing it is too dahmnit! :mad: "The best jigs and fixtures for your workshop" page 90 project 27 "auxiliary bandsaw table" shows a pic of the fella resawing a log... but its an extention for the ruddy table that its about!! oh thats pitiful

mmm maybe if I take me bifocals and a magnifyin glass and do a bit of humming and haaing while glaring at the pic it will come to me?

Thanks mate!
Cheers

Don't know of any plans, but I can give you some tips I worked out from those skew-if pictures.

Two ways to do the fence itself, one is a guide that is a fixed distance from the blade, and lets you swing the log around to cut a straight line. Quick, simple and effective to set-up and use. PITA for using for more than 10 minutes I would think though.

Other way is a proper re-saw fence.

Simply put, the fence should be high enough to support the log so you don't start cutting wedges. As I generally don't cut anything taller than 6" or so, my auxiliary fence is only 6" high.

The fence should also not extend past the back of the blade. If it does, then the odd stick with some stress in it, when cut, might push against the fence and send your cut off kilter.

You also have to align the fence with where the blade wants to cut. None of them, even the mean and angry ones that are 2" or more deep cut dead straight, and besides, setting it to the blade isn't that simple anyway. Takes a while to bash the whole method out, so it would be easier to find it either here (I bashed it in once before) or google it. Looking for something to do with blade 'drift', I think.

The board underneath the log on Stu's is prolly to stop the thing from rolling away.

I hope that sheds some light for you. It was enough for me to be able to re-hash the dinky table on my saw and a proper fence from scratch. Cuts down anything like a champ now.

Thanks Schoo!
I will have a go at making something like the one in the pic when I get back... see how that one goes... if its a PITA then I will have to try the other tack

Cheers!!

HAve a gander at this - best one i've seen so far...

http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker...ain/index.html

Cheers

Den