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  1. #1
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    Default Recommend a flat topped saw blade?

    Iím after recommendations for suitable circular saw blades for Kumiko. I have an old contractor style table saw that can be repurposed for cross-cutting trenches to make the frames; it can take a 10Ē blade on a 16mm arbor.

    The blade needs to be fairly thick; at least 3.2mm (1/8Ē) with a flat topped profile. Although the saw is rather underpowered it is only going to cutting trenches up to 8mm deep so the piddly little motor should be able to cope with whatever is available.

    So; does anyone have or know of a suitable blade?
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    I have an old contractor style table saw that can be repurposed for cross-cutting trenches to make the frames

    The blade needs to be fairly thick; at least 3.2mm (1/8”) with a flat topped profile.
    The breakout on that will be horrendous; flat top is for ripping only. What you need is ATB + raker.

    Also, are you sure it's 16mm? 5/8" is a common standard, but 16mm is not.

  4. #3
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    Chief, the closest thing I can think of it probably hard to get at least in Australia.

    Triton 9.25" ATB plus Raker has a 30mm arbor but comes with a 16mm reduction plate.

    It might not meet your thickness criterion though as it is 2.8mm I think. Probably available from Triton UK.

    Sorry to hear you have contracted the Kumiko bug. One day they might develop a vaccine for that one too.
    When you are dead you donít know that you are dead. You feel no pain, everyone else feels the pain. Itís the same thing when you are stupid.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    The breakout on that will be horrendous; flat top is for ripping only. What you need is ATB + raker.

    Also, are you sure it's 16mm? 5/8" is a common standard, but 16mm is not.
    Pretty sure itís 16mm; but I bought it nearly 20 years ago when I was still living in the UK and it has had extremely intermittent use in the last 15 years. I think I still have the manual but if not I can always measure the arbor. In any case I think any blade I find will have a bigger mounting hole anyway so I expect to need to bush it.

    Iíve been struggling to find descriptions of blade tooth geometry from manufacturers who might be available from the limited number of local retailers in Bundy; would you be able to ballpark an OEM and/or product range?
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  6. #5
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    It's harder than I thought...combination blades will often be ATB+R but not always. Milwaukee does one but only 2.8mm kerf, I'll keep looking...

    EDIT: Found one Freud LU84M Blade - Major Woodworking Equipment

  7. #6
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    Chief, a flat tipped blade really isnít necessary as you always (at least in panels I have made) have a partner strip ďmatingĒ across their respective trenches, fully enclosing any bat ears.

    Good luck with the journey though
    Lance

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    It's harder than I thought...combination blades will often be ATB+R but not always. Milwaukee does one but only 2.8mm kerf, I'll keep looking...

    EDIT: Found one Freud LU84M Blade - Major Woodworking Equipment
    I think the flat top teeth on that blade will not cut as deeply as the ATB ones. Good luck finding an ATB plus raker blade that isn't set up that way.

  9. #8
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    I had an old 10" x 1/8" crosscut blade reground, and it works fine on my 18 yo TSC 10HB. As Elanjacobs says, there is some tear-out when cross-cutting, but you can use a backing piece to avoid the problem.
    Don't get the top ground completely flat. Get them to grind half-flats on opposite sides of alternate teeth. The other half of the tooth is angled as usual. This gives the flat bottom that you want, but cuts a bit easier.
    Henry Bros. did the grinding.
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  10. #9
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    I got a 40 tooth 1/8th inch Opteco ATB reground years ago to Flat Top (all blades) and have to say it works a charm, both for the kind of delicate trenching you are wanting to do and I also use it to mitre for picture framing and also of course finger jointing. So long as I have sacrificial fencing I get no trouble at all. My all time favourite blade

    Last year I made a few hundred little crosses for a local church that were delicate like the Kumiko work, and trenched the joinery in very fine pieces of what was heat treated Oak, very splintery stuff too, but the blade was perfect.

    Got the blade for a local saw sharpener.

  11. #10
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    Try Henry Brothers:
    Henry Bros Saws - Bandsaw blades & circular saw blades

    If they don't have exactly what you want they can probably regrind either your blade or one of their new ones

  12. #11
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  13. #12
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    What’s Kumiko?

  14. #13
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    Kumiko.jpeg

    Kumiko is stuff like this, usually 1/8" stock is used and they interlock quite often making precise cutting essential. Traditional Kumiko is cut by hand but even many Japanese makers use the table saw or chop saw these days to make the precise cuts.

    Well worth investigating. Be warned, you'll get hooked

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by verawood View Post
    That is a 4mm kerf, probably too wide for Kumiko work, unless large scale

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Pretty sure it’s 16mm; but I bought it nearly 20 years ago when I was still living in the UK and it has had extremely intermittent use in the last 15 years. I think I still have the manual but if not I can always measure the arbor. In any case I think any blade I find will have a bigger mounting hole anyway so I expect to need to bush it.

    I’ve been struggling to find descriptions of blade tooth geometry from manufacturers who might be available from the limited number of local retailers in Bundy; would you be able to ballpark an OEM and/or product range?
    5/8" is 15.875mm. It really does make a difference.

    The Torquata item recommended above has 15.9mm on the blade and is described as 16mm by Timbecon in the blurb. Your guess is as good as mine but I would bet it is actually 5/8" in reality. In any event, they don't have any stock.

    They also recently added a 30mm arbor option. The 4mm is in stock. That suits me as I have a MiniMax combo. You can definitely bush down from 30mm to 5/8".

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