Thread: Recommendations for Circular Saw for 12mm Ply

Makita saws are always good. If you are going for ultimate accuracy etc then the festool is the way to go - you'll pay for it though.

Festool TS55 and the track will give you the accuracy and cut evertime.

One very happy owner.

Normally I'm a Makita fan - all my other tools are Makita. But when I came to buy a circular saw, I ended up with a 235mm Dewalt. It was the same price as the Makita, and a similar reputation, but when I tried them side by side, I found the Dewalt more balanced and less strenous to use. The more control you have, and the less it tires you out, the safer you will be.

So my advice is, Makita, or Dewalt, but take the time to pick them up and wave them around a bit, as the important thing is how much control you have and how much strain it takes you to use it.

Mine has an alloy base plate, which is supposed to be more accurate and take the wear better than the cast ones.

Whatever you buy, you'll need to buy a new, decent blade suited to your work as most of the supplied blades are cheap, and rarely match the work you're doing.

Other than that it comes to how much money you've got.

[QUOTE=Jim Carroll;1503788]Festool TS55 and the track will give you the accuracy and cut evertime.

That would be my pick too if your budget allows for it. Since cutting ply with some long straight cuts is the main purpose any of the other track/plunge cut saws should fit the bill. Check out Makita, Metabo and I think I read here somewhere that Trade tools also have one. All seem more or less based on the Festool but with less damage to the wallet.

smaller is better for cutting ply,

blade is critical, in general the more teeth the better.

you might be best advised to find an appropriate blade and then the saw to match

Thanks guys.

I knew I would need to buy a fine toothed blade.
The projects I will be working on will be speaker cabinets (up to 6) for my daughter's band. I've built speaker cabinets before (my own home theatre) but always use 16mm MDF. This time the cabinet design specifically requires 12mm softwood ply.

As woodworking isn't my main hobby, I don't want to spend a lot of money. For straight cuts I was going to make my own guides from timber. And the cabinet Plans (Bill Fitzmaurice horns) came with instructions for making various jigs, etc.

I basically want a saw where the plate edge is parallel to the blade and the plate is 90 degrees to the blade in the bevel plane (not like my old 184mm Ryobi).

Consider all the answers above , there are rails for some other saws.

Festool are he originators of the system, and make tools of the highest quality and accuracy.

When cutting he PLY I strongly suggest that , you use a STANELY KNIFE to cut along your line then cut with the saw, this will minimize splintering, also as many teeth on the saw blade, to give a fine cut , also the thinnest blade for a finer kerf.

Take time with your cuts , allow the saw and the blade to do the work, forcing the cu will only slow the saw and result in problems.

Jeff
vk4

JUST A THOUGHT<

you have several tool stores near you in a 50Km radius.

TRADE TOOLS, RENE ST NOOSA.

TOTAL TOOLS MAROOCHYDORE,

DIRECT MACHINERY WARANA

BUNNINGS HARDWARE NOOSAVILLE

I WOULD NOT WORRY ABOUT M10, OR MASTERS , UNLESS THE SAW YOU WANT IS ON SPECIAL.


Jeff
vk4

Thanks Jeff

I didn't know about the Trade Tools in Rene St, but I obviously know about Bunnings. It's a brand new store and is large and has a good range.

I like the look of the Makita SP6000K but I may have to settle for the more basic 5606B.
I've heard about pre-cutting the surface with a sharp knife. Also doing a primary cut only 0.5 - 1.0mm deep, then doing the full cut.
Super clean cuts aren't critical (that's why I'm game enough to tackle this project) because the cabinets will be finished in a very thick textured protective coating. The main thing I have to be wary of is that all joints have to be airtight.
Festool is definitely out of my price range, but I will probably have a good look at a DeWalt.

Thanks for all the advice.

GO THE MAROONS!!!!!!

Originally Posted by vk4

Consider all the answers above , there are rails for some other saws.

Festool are he originators of the system, and make tools of the highest quality and accuracy.

When cutting he PLY I strongly suggest that , you use a STANELY KNIFE to cut along your line then cut with the saw, this will minimize splintering, also as many teeth on the saw blade, to give a fine cut , also the thinnest blade for a finer kerf.

Take time with your cuts , allow the saw and the blade to do the work, forcing the cu will only slow the saw and result in problems.

Jeff
vk4

To minimise the splintering as much as possible, mark your cut(s) and run masking tape along the line on BOTH sides of the cut. Be sure to press the tape down firmly, and remove immediately after the cut is made.

If a job's worth doing it's worth doing well!

Originally Posted by Nordo

Thanks guys.

I knew I would need to buy a fine toothed blade.
The projects I will be working on will be speaker cabinets (up to 6) for my daughter's band. I've built speaker cabinets before (my own home theatre) but always use 16mm MDF. This time the cabinet design specifically requires 12mm softwood ply.

As woodworking isn't my main hobby, I don't want to spend a lot of money. For straight cuts I was going to make my own guides from timber. And the cabinet Plans (Bill Fitzmaurice horns) came with instructions for making various jigs, etc.

I basically want a saw where the plate edge is parallel to the blade and the plate is 90 degrees to the blade in the bevel plane (not like my old 184mm Ryobi).

if it's essentially a "one off" exercise, it is probably cheaper and certainly a whole lot easier to get your ply supplier (or a local kitchen maker) to cut out all the pieces for you. every corner, every edge will be 90°, or whatever angle you require

Originally Posted by ian

if it's essentially a "one off" exercise, it is probably cheaper and certainly a whole lot easier to get your ply supplier (or a local kitchen maker) to cut out all the pieces for you. every corner, every edge will be 90°, or whatever angle you require

I don't believe the place I want to buy my ply from has cutting facilities. It's basically a bulk supplier to the building industry.
However I know a couple of cabinetmakers who I could use. I actually had two speaker cabinets made by a cabinetmaker friend many years ago. Well made, but cost a bit more than I had anticipated. I also know lots of builders, but I don't know anyone who has woodworking as a hobby.
Also, even though I haven't been bitten by the bug, I still like the sense of achievement in making my own.

In the past I have bought the odd tool to help with a project. But I've always bought from the lower end of the market (e.g. Ozito) as often the tool may only get used once then possibly never again. I'm just a little dubious about buying a cheap circular saw where accuracy of the cuts depends as much on the tool as the operator.

Nordo
two things,
using a cabinet maker's facilities to complete a cutting list in ply or MDF is not "cheating". More "smart" in that you get the boring bit over quickly
also, ply ain't ply. If your plans come from the US they probably require you use what in Australia is classified as furniture grade ply. Just check that your local supplier carries it

The surface finish of the timber isn't important. C/D is considered perfect.
Once built, the cabinet exterior is coated in a thick textured paint (DuraTek or similar) or a thin carpet glued on.
The suggested timber is birch, being relatively light but not too soft. Although arauco (radiata) is also recommended. I think any softwood ply is suitable, with the understanding that the softer species are more susceptible to dents during use. It is also recommended to ensure the 12mm ply has 5 equal plys and the outermost layer on either side is not a thin veneer.

The cabinets I will be building will receive a lot of abuse being constantly hauled in and out of a small trailer. The cabinet corners will be protected with plastic or metal protectors.

But I agree. It would be great to have all the parts cut with professional equipment by someone who makes precision cuts for a living.