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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ball Peen View Post
    Devery,
    I would do it in 2 stages. 1st make 2.4 lenghts. A biscut end butt will be fine but has to be supported on the underside till joined to another 2.4 length. 2nd shoot the edges and join the top, remove the end joint supports.

    I did a similar thing on a smaller table using flooring offcuts. Many of the ends were 45 degree already, so I made all the end joints 45. More interesting than 90 degree and more glue area.

    My approach is very similar to Bill’s. Stage 1 - Glue 2 lengths of 2.4m to form a single board, and you end up with 4 boards. Stage 2 - Machine the 4 larger boards to their final thickness and width, then join the top.

    Here is one I prepared earlier (7 years actually). The top was made from short and narrow pieces. Total cost of timber = next to nothing.

    table.JPG
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

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  3. #17
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    Wongo,

    Out of interest how did you join the end grain of the short boards to make the 2.4m single length?
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  4. #18
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    If I wasn't worried about the movement of the redgum I would probably be using that method. Your table looks great, Wongo. I'm also curious how you made the 2.4 lengths?

    I spoke to my boss (client also) and we agreed to spend some money and get some appropriate lengths of redgum to make the frame. I've just come back from Shiver Me Timbers in Melbourne. Aaron is fantastic, very helpful and friendly. So I got a couple of lengths at 280mm x 35mm and I've ripped one board down to make the table top boarder.

    photo 1-2.jpgphoto 2-2.jpg

    They have come up well, time to start cutting to length, mortice and tenons then working out how to route this mortice... hmmm.

    And for those interest, I'm using this Paul Call unit. It's doing a fine job.

    photo 3.jpg

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Stinkalot View Post
    Wongo,

    Out of interest how did you join the end grain of the short boards to make the 2.4m single length?
    Butt joint with biscuit
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devery View Post
    Your table looks great, Wongo. I'm also curious how you made the 2.4 lengths?
    I will try my best to describe it. Remember mine are very short and narrow pieces, they are 5-6cm wide and some are only 25cm long. So it is fairly difficult to put them together accurately.

    You need a flat and straight surface to work on. In my case I used an old kitchen bench top. Glue 2 rows of stock together and place it on the flat surface. See attached pic.( Orange = Flat surface, purple = straight edge, arrow = clamp, circle = clamp to secure stock firmly on the flat surface). You will new need a pair of 3m pipe clamps and a lot of F-clamps or G-clamps. Make sense?


    tabletop.JPG
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  7. #21
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks Wongo. I think that technique will be quite handy for me, I do come across a few off cuts.

    I'm working on the mortise and tenons at the moment. Just thinking ahead to the mortise that will take the slats. I'm thinking that the table saw will be quicker to produce this mortise, just running it along the length a could of times. Would this be an acceptable method? How deep should the mortise be?

    James.

  8. #22
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    Okay, I finally have my boarder pieces with their mortise and tenons. I'm now going to mortise the long lengths ready for the slats. I'm back on using the router apposed to the table saw now. How deep should the mortice be?

    photo-2.jpg

    I was thinking maybe making the tenons quite thick, maybe 20mm of the 32mm. Then I would go 20 - 30mm mortice, would this be sufficient?

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devery View Post
    I'm working on the mortise and tenons at the moment. Just thinking ahead to the mortise that will take the slats. I'm thinking that the table saw will be quicker to produce this mortise, just running it along the length a could of times. Would this be an acceptable method? How deep should the mortise be?

    James.
    Yes you can cut your tenons on a table quite easily. Just clear them up with a chisel or a shoulder plane.

    I reckon your tenon should be 4 to 5 cm long and 1/3 of the thickness of the wood thick.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  10. #24
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    Thanks again for everyones help. Here are a few progress shots. I was waiting on new bandsaw tires so I had to work with only 7 or 8 slats that I had managed to get done before the tires went.. So here is how its looking.

    photo 3-1.jpgphoto 2-3.jpgphoto 1-3.jpg

  11. #25
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    Nice work.

    If it is an outdoor table, than I will suggest not to use glue at all. Don’t waste your time. Instead use dowel pins to lock all the joints and use nuts and bolts for the legs and rails.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  12. #26
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    Looking good so far. If you haven't done so already I would consider a slight chamfer on the slats and the edges of the frame to help prevent the little redgum splinters
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  13. #27
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    Good Morning Everyone.

    Great series of posts. This thread is what Woodwork Forum is all about. Well done.

    And I like the way your table is coming along, Devery.

    Fair Winds

    Graeme

  14. #28
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    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  15. #29
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    James ...... how did the finished project come up???

    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  16. #30
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    Hi all,

    Sorry I let this one die out. Unfortunately I haven't made any progress on the table but hopefully that is about to change. I will promise some progress shots soon!

    One of the many reasons was to do with my bandsaw tires breaking. I need some help getting it all set up though..

    I have a 21" Carba-Tec bandsaw. I bought some new rubber tires for them recently and fit them on. Unfortunately fitting them didn't go too smoothly. In fitting them they stretched unevenly. It has created some undulations in the tire.

    How would I go about getting rid of the undulations or evenly stretching the tire? I'm going to pick up some new blades tomorrow so I would love to get these tires in the best condition. Also, do I need to true the wheels at all? Is there any way to do that on these bandsaws?

    Thanks for all your help!

    James.

    2013-06-17 14.27.43.jpg

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