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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2

    Default ReGlueing Hardwood Kitchen benchtop

    Hi All,
    My Kitchen has bench and bar tops made (commercially) from lengths of Hardwood 75mm wide & laminated together. Redgum or Jarrah I think. Due to movement in the house (and some DIY clot affixing directly to the studs in the wall) the strips have separated...so here's my problem...How do I identify the glue used so I can clean and/or reglue and what should I use to reglue? I realise this is a clamping job, but dowl joints or biscuits maybe a little difficult with such hard timber and I'm not sure that the old Aquadhere will do the job especially in a kitchen situation.
    I should add the original joins are mechanically smooth and perfect and in some places look to have had no adhsive at all. I'm just not sure what a professional cabinet maker in the mid 1980"s would have used.
    Thanks in advance for your help

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Default

    Could have been glued with anything from PVA to phenol formaldehyde , the proper way to fix a solid wood top is too remove it recut and machine it, then glue it.
    ....................................................................

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    330

    Default ReGluing Hardwood Kitchen benchtop

    I would have no faith in the type of glue that has been used in the laminating of the pieces in the making of your bench top. Laminated Jarrah bench tops ( Gluelum) were manufactured and marketed by Bunnings some 8 to 10 years ago but have been taken of the market since their manufacturing facility was taken over by Gunns, These bench tops were laminated in Jarrah pieces ex 50mm stock and the adhesive was I think a Resorcinol provided by Ciba Geigi or something similar that is used for laminating of structural timber members, therefore I could not see the top delaminating if it was ex Bunnings.
    It sounds like the top was made up by someone using some inferior adhesive for that purpose, as if it was made proply it should not have delaminated.
    My recommendation is to remachine the pieces to remove any traces of the old adhesive from surface that have delaminated and regluing using a 2 pack epoxy such as West System and using dowels or biscuits for realignment purposes.
    When fixing the tops down donot forget to provide sloted holes to allow the top to move in width ( shrinkage) as this may have been the problem in the 1st place. What ever you do do not use PVA. and you will have to resand the top and finish in a 2 pack epoxy finish paticular being in a moist situation.
    Best of luck.
    Mac

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Jimboomba Qld.
    Age
    69
    Posts
    594

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon1 View Post
    I'm just not sure what a professional cabinet maker in the mid 1980"s would have used.
    Hi Gordon, I reckon the glues most likly used in those days for lamination would have been Resorsonal (NOT THE RIGHT SPELLING) a 2 part mix or Selleys 308 a 3 part mix.

    Cheers

    Steve
    Discover your Passion and Patience follows.
    www.fineboxes.com.au

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