Thread: Removing a panel from an external panelled door

It's probable that the beading holds the panels in place.

Originally Posted by ian

It's probable that the beading holds the panels in place.

If that's the case it's an easy fix. It is more likely (especially in older doors) that the panels are held in rebates in the stiles and rails which would mean, at least, removing the outer stiles to get the panels out.

Originally Posted by burraboy

If that's the case it's an easy fix. It is more likely (especially in older doors) that the panels are held in rebates in the stiles and rails which would mean, at least, removing the outer stiles to get the panels out.

I need to know how to remove the beading and from which side

There are many ways to build a door and you will have to make an educated guess. Without pictures it is impossible for anyone here to answer your question precisely and even with pictures it would still be a guess.

This page shows one way an external door might be constructed. As you can see from the drawing, even if you pulled off the moulding the panel might still be rebated into a groove in the stiles. You might get lucky and find it sits in a simple rebate and not a groove. That might show by measuring the depth from the edge of the stile to the moulding on both sides of the door. If the measurements are not the same then you probably have a rebate on the side that doesn't seem to be as wide.

It is usual for the exterior beading to be removed.
TM

I replace a lot of headlight panels in windows and doors and in every case the beadings are always removed from the inside and the outside is a decorative rebate. This is for security. Do not attempt from the outside or you will damage your door!

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

There are many ways to build a door and you will have to make an educated guess. Without pictures it is impossible for anyone here to answer your question precisely and even with pictures it would still be a guess.

at worst you can remove the molding on the inside of the door. It should be nailed to the style and rails, but might be nailed to the panel, or even be part of the panel itself.
If the panel is mounted inside a groove in the rails and styles, you will have to use a router to cut the panel out -- and in the process create rebate for the new panel.

It is not a job for the faint hearted, nor one I would attempt without taking the door off it's hinges -- meaning you will need a temporary door while you fix the current one.

I don't know much about lead lighting but....IMG_20181101_114003.jpgIMG_20181101_113946.jpg
the moulding on this external (rebated) door are definately on the outside.
This grooved rebate door, on the other hand, has removable mouldings on both sides:
IMG_20181109_172807.jpgIMG_20181109_172737.jpg
Here is an example of another rebated glazed door, with beading on the outside:
IMG_20181109_172820.jpg
I'm not saying there aren't plenty of exceptions, but in my experience, it's common practice.

The reason the moulding is usually on the outside, assuming one side is fixed, ie a rebated rather than grooved door, is water ingress. If water gets in on the fixed side, it has nowhere to go but will rot out the door. Loose (fixed) mouldings are considered consumable (expected to last 15 or 20 years only)
Makes sense to me, anyway
TM

Interesting related link:
http://historicdoors.com/pdf/hsd_point_of_entry.pdf
Note: american.

cpl of relevant pics:raised panel dims.jpgraised panel simple.jpgraised panel modern.jpg