Thread: removing window locks

G'Day Pugwash,
You could try either, cut a slot in the screw with a hacksaw for a blade screwdriver
or just use a long pair of vice-grips on it.
Cheers, Crowie

if you can grind a flat bladed screw driver so that the blade has square edges and just fits the screw slot, you should be able to back the screws out

3 ways to do it, 4 if you count destruction, in order of progression to try.

1. as others mentioned grind a scredriver to a blade within the confines of the screw head and apply a lot of force backing it out till you can grip it with visegrips for the remainder, the screw head design is much like a stripped flat slot screw anyways.

2. use a centre punch and hammer and use the meaty part of one and or both parts of the screw head to loosen and tap it out backwards, continuing as above with visegrips when you can get them to purchase on the head.

3. centre punch the centre of the screw head and drill out the countersunk head, this relieves the lock body to remove and then use vise grips to remove the threaded post left behind. Much like you'd drill out a pop rivet, drill size should be just larger than the thread.

4. BFH, or if dammage isnt a problem and you've room to swing....watch the glass though.

Hope thats a help. Also a few tips, the above can apply to woodframe or allum framed ones, and in all cases protect the glass and yourself, tape up the widows if your leaving the glass in place, and be aware of what or who is or can be below the window, its best done if you can remove the window from the frame and support it on a flat surface. This also works for patio bolts on french doors and glass sliders. Depending on the lock brand often dictates the quality of the screws and their mounting, for some your only option is to drill as they're screwed very deep into the lock body. I was a Locksmith for a number of years on and off and these methods were what i used. Good Luck.

Neal.

I've never done that Pug, but I wonder if an impact screwdriver would work?

I had to do this on quite a few windows once. Go to bunnings and buy yourself the appropriate side screw extractor. You will destroy each screw but you wont want to put them back anyway. Use normal screws.

I really never could see the point of those tamper proof screws. I've never heard of a burglar yet who is going to spend the time unscrewing window locks once he's already inside. And he's going to destroy the window first before using a screwdriver for it's intended use while getting in.

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

I had to do this on quite a few windows once. Go to bunnings and buy yourself the appropriate side screw extractor. You will destroy each screw but you wont want to put them back anyway. Use normal screws.

I really never could see the point of those tamper proof screws. I've never heard of a burglar yet who is going to spend the time unscrewing window locks once he's already inside. And he's going to destroy the window first before using a screwdriver for it's intended use while getting in.

Yeap the screw extractor will do the same job as a ground regular screwdriver, when in trade i had plenty of worn out ones, so used those, not all the screws will be the same sized head, the problem with the screw extractors is they have a tendancy to slip (not good around glass panes).

And as far as the tamper proof screws vs security, the thinking behind the design is to force the issue of time vs noise, whitch they do quite effectivly, no time break the window and create noise, risk discovery instantly, or too long no noise but in the place far too long, increases the time for discovery. Often i'd come across builder fitted locks still with the regular flat blade or phillips screws fitted, so dissapointed, the lock itself is only as secure as its fixings.

Almost every type of lock / security design will do this in one way or another. A deadbolt on a front door - no time, kick it in or jimmy bar it = hell of a racket, or on the other extreme lockpick it no noise but a LOT of time. A chinese puzzle box, try moving sides to unlock it, sometimes a large number of sequences, or smash it with a hammer. etc.

Neal.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Iv'e got a bad cold at the moment but when I get it done I'll post the results.