Thread: Resawing Issues

John
I have an electric blade welder and make all my blades from bulk stock and NEVER have a blade break at the weld if the weld is properly annealed. Even when I have had to reweld a blade due to a faulty primary weld ( sometimes the weld has an air hole) again proper annealing means no breaks at the weld.
I would not hesitate to have a resaw king rewelded by an operator who knows what they are doing.
Cheers
Ron

Agreed with the tension comments, pinch of salt and all that with optimistic references.
I just use a ping/deflection test for that.
Might be an idea to have a look to see if there's any yaw issues.
Does the machine run without vibration without a blade installed?
If not it might need alignment.

I came across a bandsaw setup video by Marc Spagnuolo, the wood whisperer and as far as I know, he was the only
one who suggested jigging blocks up to a beam/level to check alignment.
I wonder where he got that info from, anyway I tried doing that and it seems that one block taped to a
beam is all you need, not a pair, unless its a slightly different method than the way he has referenced.

It took me some time to figure out to use it though,
Anything changes everything in this regard, should you choose to adjust anything.
Take measurements beforehand, and make sure your belt is loose as you can toast your motor bearings in about five seconds
should the pulley be misaligned with the wheel, BELT LOOSE I TELLS ya! don't ask me how I know.

With that in mind that the motor pulley alignment takes priority over everything, and have taken belt measurement, 4 jacking screw measurements, and tracking handle measurement beforehand...
you can commence measuring the wheels under what you think is a good setup.
An inch blade might be a bit wide for testing, if the teeth are close to the front.

Any adjustment of the lower wheel will throw off the tracking, check both wheels to keep parallel with frame and coplanar.
Despite having a crowned profile or not, best having your level and machine plum.

I'd go a step further and have a video on using this, but might be a bit OTT (my old Italian saw is very adjustable)

So with max blade that will not overhang wheel under any circumstances, trial and error...
It should be possible to place the beam against the rim (the wheel hub might not be possible to reference off)
You cannot clamp this beam if you intend to do any adjustments, as you need the wheels to move.
Some rare earth magnets could be sunk into the blocks instead of straining yourself.

Top wheel parallel with frame
SAM_4630.jpg
Then the lower wheel (or whichever way is faster)
SAM_4633.jpg

This is where the magnets would be a nice addition
SAM_4568.jpg
SAM_4595.jpg

As I said you can't do anything but check if you clamp the beam, as you need a block to stop the weight of the rig swinging the wheel, if you can make out the block wedged under the top wheel.
The wheels need to be hand tracked until the tracking settles.

SAM_4606.jpg

Belt loose or you risk your motor bearings!
Hopefully it will line up with your pulley, I was relieved it was on my machine.
I see many designs cater for the guidepost to be adjusted, as my saw wasn't adjustable in this regard,
it contributed to the demise of my motor bearings,

This is how I learned the motor takes preference rather than the guidepost,


SAM_4615.jpg

Big long post about things no one should have to do, but as far as I can make out,
is one method that's surer than anything else I've seen.

I aint saying that you should adjust anything should you wish to send it back or whatever,
I was told before that this could void warranty by a bit of a shifty company policy kinda thing.
You can't break anything by measuring...
unless you drop the table that is.

Good luck
Tom

Originally Posted by ronboult

John
I have an electric blade welder and make all my blades from bulk stock and NEVER have a blade break at the weld if the weld is properly annealed. Even when I have had to reweld a blade due to a faulty primary weld ( sometimes the weld has an air hole) again proper annealing means no breaks at the weld.
I would not hesitate to have a resaw king rewelded by an operator who knows what they are doing.
Cheers
Ron

Clearly you know a lot more on this subject than I do, Ron. Thanks for the info.


I am sure you are correct. Nonetheless, your post left me wondering about how many people out there who are welding blades really know what they are doing. The weld on my third Resaw King was terrible (the first two were replaced as I could not adjust them for drift). It was necessary to spend some time fixing the mess on the third blade with a grinding stone. Then it broke at the weld.

Why do you not live close to me so you could weld my blades?

I still recall well your visit to my shop, along with all your clever instruments. Thanks again. You helped a lot.

Originally Posted by John Samuel

Clearly you know a lot more on this subject than I do, Ron. Thanks for the info.


I am sure you are correct. Nonetheless, your post left me wondering about how many people out there who are welding blades really know what they are doing. The weld on my third Resaw King was terrible (the first two were replaced as I could not adjust them for drift). It was necessary to spend some time fixing the mess on the third blade with a grinding stone. Then it broke at the weld.

Why do you not live close to me so you could weld my blades?

I still recall well your visit to my shop, along with all your clever instruments. Thanks again. You helped a lot.

John welding blades is not rocket science. When trimming blades for welding get the ends square and make sure the two ends are straight in welder. Then make sure the upsetting pressure (way) is correctly set. Then its just a matter of pressing the weld button. The next trick is to ensure the weld is properly annealed before grinding. If the upsetting pressure is set correctly then not too much grinding is required and the blade runs straight and quiet on the saw.

i bought my electric welder second hand and its not the largest they make and it struggles to weld blades over 3/4” but I do have some 1” stock which I have managed to weld after several tries

[QUOTE=Damienol;2247808]The blade tension is set to the start of the redzone for a 3/4” blade
Damienol

Having adequate tension on a bandsaw is one of the most common mistakes many people make. The tension that is shown by many bandsaw tension displays is often optimistic and in some cases the saw can never produce enough. Buy or borrow a blade tension guage then you will actually know what you are achieving. It’s actually enlightening to check what the bandsaw blade manufacturers actually recommend
Ron

Amen Ron.

When I took delivery of my Resaw King blade I was told, "These blades like a LOT of tension".

The salesman said that if tensioned correctly the blade should look like a straight line (no flutter) when running. He suggested that not providing enough tension was a chief cause of trouble with the blade.

My Resaw King had virtually zero flutter ... it did look like a vertical straight black like when running.

I bought my 1" resaw blade from Henry Bros. I'll dig out the receipt and see what they call it. Had it several years and never had it resharpened...yet.

Henry bros? Chances are it will be a Lenox Woodmaster CT.

The only problem I have with my Lenox is getting enough tension onto it. Maybe I'm older than I thought.

Originally Posted by John Samuel

Am I correct in assuming you had the broken Resaw King blade rewelded woodPixel? Perhaps more than once? Did it always break on the original weld?

I've only ever broken two blades, the Resaw King on the SUV and an 8-10mm blade on the Trade Tools cheapie. Both were thrown out. Are rewelded blades more likely to break along the weld because of changes to the crystalline structure of the metal or similar?

Henry Bros Sydney did the job - twice.

Initial break was random. Second re-broke at the repaired weld, or just above/below it. One would assume HB knows what they are doing.

On the third I sold it here on the forum as I couldn't use it (too short). The buyer would have made it to their desired saws length, lucky them!

My saw is the Laguna SUV14" and I cranked it pretty hard.

It was an awesome blade, but the cost of post/repair+price became less than awesome.... the Lennox is a nice blade. I was/am most happy with it (all is in storage)

WP, are you running a 1" Lennox CT on the SUV14?

Originally Posted by Alkahestic

WP, are you running a 1" Lennox CT on the SUV14?

I searched all the emails, receipts (I photograph them) and cannot find that info. My purchases spreadsheet only says that I bought it on 3/8/16 and paid $148.....

It would be the one suggested by Henry Bros.

The chart on Lenox says that they are made as a 1" x 0.035 in a 2 and 1.3 TPI. This is the only applicable size choice... TPI is the only permutation.

I really don't know which TPI I would have chosen. Im going to the warehouse tomorrow (?) and will check it then. Its on the saw in storage



edit -ooooo! I might have a photo of the blade. Let me search....

Finally got the blade back from the sharpeners and I can happily report that I am now seeing the best results from a bandsaw I have ever seen [emoji4]

Glad to hear the saw is running so well.

A good bandsaw is a delight.