Resawing Issues

**Damienol** · 22nd July 2021, 06:10 PM

Hi WWF,

Can anyone shed any insight as to why this is occurring when I try and cut 3mm American Oak veneers?

Blade is perfectly perpendicular to table as is the resaw fence. Timber is jointed on 2 faces.

The top of the cut is perfect and I didnt even notice I had an issue until I went to the jointer to prep for the next cut.

Cheers
Damien

**aldav** · 22nd July 2021, 06:33 PM

So you're cutting these on the table saw? If so, some more details of your setup (fence height, feather board height etc.) and the blade you're using would help. If not, and you're using the bandsaw some pictures of your setup with the stock against the fence would help.

**Damienol** · 22nd July 2021, 06:42 PM

Haha, I can see how the pic could be confusing.

Definitely on the Bandsaw - Laguna 14-Twelve with the resaw fence and a 3/4” resaw king blade.

No pics available at the moment

**Chief Tiff** · 22nd July 2021, 06:44 PM

I’m assuming you’re using a bandsaw…

Looks like blade drift. Re-set your bandsaw following this guy’s method

I set the table/blades/guides on the three saws at the Bundy Woodworking Guild using Alex’s method; to prove the set up I use the saw to cut a 1/16” max veneer from the handiest lump of wood at least 4” thick.

**Toymaker Len** · 22nd July 2021, 06:52 PM

Looks like there isn't enough tension on the blade. Bigger blades need lots of tension.

**Damienol** · 22nd July 2021, 07:17 PM

The blade tension is set to the start of the redzone for a 3/4” blade

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**Damienol** · 22nd July 2021, 07:33 PM

IMO, drift test passed with flying colours

**aldav** · 22nd July 2021, 07:59 PM

Are you using any kind of a feather board? Looks like it could only be a hand feeding problem to me.

**Damienol** · 22nd July 2021, 08:29 PM

First failed cut I used a Magswitch Magnetic Featherboard Dual Roller Fence.

Second failed attempt was free hand

**hurcorh** · 23rd July 2021, 01:49 AM

The inbuilt tension guides on the bandaw are rarely accurate in my opinion.

The Best Way to Set Up a Bandsaw! - YouTube

If the blade is busting out at the bottom of the board it is normally not enough tension assuming the blade and table are square.

**riverbuilder** · 23rd July 2021, 09:32 AM

More tension. As the blade gets warm, it stretches, losing tension, pull it on more.

**AlexS** · 23rd July 2021, 09:56 AM

It can be a problem with the blade being unevenly set - it will cut more on one side, and the blade will tend to pull to that side. If that's the case, no amount of tension will solve the problem. Are you using a new or old blade? I've found that a TCT resaw blade solves the problem.

**aldav** · 23rd July 2021, 11:29 AM

I thought the Resaw King was a TCT blade?

**Toymaker Len** · 23rd July 2021, 11:32 AM

The tension guage is usually useless. Try bumping the tension up in increments and do some test runs in scrap timber. My bet is more tension will improve it. Also have a look at where the blade goes into the table, if you have nicked the casting then your blade will be shot.

**Damienol** · 23rd July 2021, 05:58 PM

Its got me stump.

- Table and blade and fence are square
- Blade tension seems fine. I fear I couldn’t tighten any further without risk of damage
- featherboard at the base, and free hand at the top of the board
- feed rate is slow

Could it be that the blade just isnt sharp enough?

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