Thread: Ripping Blade for Table Saw

Confirm this with a Sawyer but the arbour hole can be enlarged very easily.

I got a CMT a while ago. It comes with a 30 mm arbour, so I had to get a reducer
CMT Ripping Blade - 250mm x 24 Teeth | Rip Cutting - Carbatec

Kind regards,
Lance

I broke my ABC (Anywhere But Carbatec) rule and picked up some thin kerf CMT blades.

Hopefully they are as good as the freud diablo’s.

Timbecon have a ripping blade in their store brand with a 30mm bore https://www.timbecon.com.au/ripping-circular-saw-blades

I've got the 250mm blade being used with a bushing for my 5/8" arbor, it definitely rips easier than a general purpose blade but it doesn't always leave a glue ready surface behind. One or two passes with a plane is enough to clean up the surface.

After a couple of weeks of testing the CMT ripping blade I would have to say it sux.

My general purpose Freud Diablo blade leaves a much cleaner finish.

Verdict still out on the crosscut blade

I always use combination blades. These usually come in 40 or 50 tooth styles for a ten inch blade. They are easily recognized by 4 ATB teeth and a raker (R) or flat top tooth. These blades are in either 8 or 10 groups of five teeth. The combination blade works equally well for ripping or crosscut operations. The reason that I mention these blades is that I've yet to find a blade that leaves an edge smooth enough for gluing or edge to edge joining.

BTW - If you are gluing timber up to make a wider board it is best to run the edge over a jointer. Do it so that the to be glued edges are joined in and out. What I mean is that one piece is jointed with the face against the fence or in. The other piece is jointed with the face away from the fence or out. The reason is that we normally can not set the jointer fence to a perfect 90°.

Thin kerf ripping blades and Australian hardwoods don't mix. For stock up to 25mm thick I use a Freud 'Glue Line Rip' blade (250mm, 28teeth) and for finish rip cuts over 25mm a Freud 'Heavy Duty Rip' blade (250mm, 24 teeth). Both are full kerf (1/8") and I couldn't be happier with them.

If you use Rich's jointer method () on the saw you can glue up straight off the blade.

I have the 24 tooth freud blade full kerf as well , very happy with it. My understanding is that thin kerf blades are aimed at lower powered table saws , mostly from the American 110v market.
Recently when getting a bandsaw blade from Henry Bros I also got an 80 tooth crosscut blade ( german made HBS brand ) , it cuts extremely well and was much cheaper than the freud/Cmt options ( under $100 ). They might have a good option for ripping too.

Just a question from the grandstand, years ago there were saw blades advertised with sandpaper sides which were supposed to leave edges perfect for gluing.

Anyone ever seen/used one of these?

Are they still available?

Have they been shelved as another one of those “it seemed like a good idea at the time?”

I have always used full thickness CMT blades without any issues but they do get sharpened regularly by a professional saw sharpening service. Any minor issues in the past could be put down to blades that were not as sharp as they could be as opposed to being blunt or pitch/resin build up.

Bob,
I have to ask the question, Why?

The reason that I ask is, if a saw blade is to work properly and clear the chafe from the cut, the teeth need something called set. What this means that every tooth extends over the blade disk. From measurement, the set is about 1/64 inch. With sandpaper affixed to the saw blade and considering set, how would you expect that to work? My estimation is that after a meter or two of rip cut, the sand paper would be worn out if not burned out

In all honesty, I don't see how the sand paper on the blade would work consistently, long term.

Two points here. If this was a really great improvement to table saw operations, why are blade manufacturers selling sand paper disk halos? Why is no one offering replacement halos?

Originally Posted by Bob38S

Just a question from the grandstand, years ago there were saw blades advertised with sandpaper sides which were supposed to leave edges perfect for gluing.

Never heard of that, but it sounds like a positively terrible idea.

1) Sandpaper and saw blades need to move at very different speeds to work properly. If you try spinning sandpaper at saw blade speed, it will clog, overheat and burn in seconds and any grit coarse enough to not clog would leave a surface entirely unsuitable for gluing.
2) Such a blade would, presumably, be reliant on the entire side of the blade being in contact with the timber being cut. Pretty much every saw blade of any kind ever made is designed to specifically not do that to minimise friction and heat.

There are blades made with long wiper teeth, but they're generally for gang-rip saws that stack several blades on the same shaft

Not my idea, just something from the not always efficient memory bank, and always curious.

Never tried it, never seen it, could vaguely remember seeing something about it, but I’m always ready to look at something “new”.

Final Cut- 10-in. Sanding Sawblade - FineWoodworking

Final Cut Saw Blade Review | Pro Tool Reviews

Quoting from 'ProTool Review'.
"Final Cut Saw Blade it reminded us of something we might see on a late night infomercial that could have questionable results. The idea seemed simple enough, but we had some questions as to durability and long term use that we wanted to investigate."

To me that is a lawyer proof non committal endorsement. I tend to agree with the non-endorsement.

I remember being at a woodworking show where the blade was being demonstrated. What I remember is that the wood being cut was less than ¾ inch thick and more like ½ inch. And of course the saw was perfectly aligned saw with a fence wide after the cut. Meaning, almost impossible to get saw blade tracks during the cut. I never saw two pieces held up together with a background light. At the time my reaction was MEH. I thought that if I was edge joining ½ inch thick pieces or less it would be a great addition to the shop. But I don't do that, so . . . . MEH

Thanks for that, my curiosity satisfied, ie, someone who has actually seen it not just internet news or an opinion from someone who may/may not have or be a vested interest.

Like so many things, “It seemed like a good idea, at the time” but just doesn’t stand up to the pub test.