Rookie mistake - looking for fix options

**Evanism** · 27th July 2013, 04:08 PM

Like your bench. It looks great.

For the drawer, if it fits in nicely and if this is just for the garage or not a museum then perhaps these ideas:

- as the drawer slides in and out, but hasn't support, why not add runners to the bottom of the cabinet itself and two or three timber pieces to the underside of the table top. The back top edge of the draw would rub against table underside runners preventing it from tilting, and the runners on the bottom support the draw with gravity.

- a dowel or biscuit on the top edge of the back draw would stop it from sliding all the way out. Fit it so it sits between the table underside runners. Tilt the draw front-up to get it in.

- as mentioned by another, but a small elaboration, use a screw in the rear left and right walls behind the draws to allow for adjustment. Rather than one on the centre, as the draw doesn't have sliders it won't go in straight, but the two screws, when adjusted appropriately, will force the draw to sit at both the right depth, but will be flush with the front (if angled, screw one or the other in/out a smidge

BTW, I don't think it's rookie to have enthusiasm. The way you have done it is normal. So many drawers from cheap furniture places (here's looking at you Hardly Normal) and also every old dining room cupboard and bedroom chest from the past used this method. (I don't think ball bearing dual full length metal retractable runners were too common in the 18th century . )

**Evanism** · 27th July 2013, 04:26 PM

Here, using my excellent photoshop skills, is what I mean:

On the draw, the red sticking up thing is the tenon or biscuit. This will stop the draw from falling out. The two pink things sticking back are screws Of Suitable Length.

On the desk, purple lines are the anti-tip runners fixed to the underside of the table, red are the runners from the bottom, green are on each side to stop the draw from rotating as its pulled/pushed.

Naturally, they will be flush with the appropriate surface. It will wear the upper thin side of the back of the draw over the next 40 years

I thought as the draw looks extra-meaty that the weight alone would force 98% of the work onto the bottom rails.

desk.jpg desk2.jpg

**Ozziespur** · 29th July 2013, 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by doug3030

I am not sure now that you understood my original post on stopping the drawer. I telys on there being no bottom under the drawer, just the front and back lower rails.... The stop block sits under the drawer, screwed to the bottom o fthe drawer so that when the drawer is shut it it is in contact with teh rail on the back of the table, and when you pull the drawer out it sops the drawer when it hits the inside of the lower front rail. I hope that makes it clear.

Chrystal

Thanks.

Hope to get a chance to finish this off this week. I hate it when work gets in the way of more important things

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