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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    5

    Question rosewood direct stick flooring to concrete

    Hi, I have just had a house built and I am thinking to direct stick New Guniea Rosewood down as flooring. I have done research (also been to timber.org.au) but are in need of a few questions.

    Firstly I have heard rosewood is considerably stable, I have a room 8 meters wide which the boards will span across (not the lenghthways the boards are running). I have read I will need an expansion joint if over 6 metres. is there anyway of avioding this? is PNG Rosewood stable enough to just leave 10mm either side.

    If I decide to go ahead with this will I need to machine toung and groves in my boards? is it possible to butt join them? or will this be to unevan? biscuits? it is a lot of machining to machine 65m squared flooring Toung and grove from rough boards. should I perhaps buy premachined boards?

    should I lay 140 x 12 mm boards or 110 mm x 12? I got a price for 150x50 or 120x50 for $2600 +GST a cube. lenghts of 1.8 to 3.6m. is this price ok?

    Thanks for reading, I will appreciate any advise on this subject.

    cheers.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    come over to the reno forum but here is my throughts

    Quote Originally Posted by ashgiles View Post
    Hi, I have just had a house built and I am thinking to direct stick New Guniea Rosewood down as flooring. I have done research (also been to timber.org.au) but are in need of a few questions.

    Firstly I have heard rosewood is considerably stable, I have a room 8 meters wide which the boards will span across (not the lenghthways the boards are running). I have read I will need an expansion joint if over 6 metres. is there anyway of avioding this? is PNG Rosewood stable enough to just leave 10mm either side. no need mid floor joints other option is to leave 1.5mm gap every 1mt

    If I decide to go ahead with this will I need to machine toung and groves in my boards? is it possible to butt join them? or will this be to unevan? biscuits? it is a lot of machining to machine 65m squared flooring Toung and grove from rough boards. should I perhaps buy premachined boards? boards need to be T&G, biscuits are not a good option. boards should be machined by a professional setup, its also a good idea to have them end matched to have less waste.

    should I lay 140 x 12 mm boards or 110 mm x 12? I got a price for 150x50 or 120x50 for $2600 +GST a cube. lenghts of 1.8 to 3.6m. is this price ok? if you deep cut the 50mm down to 25mm this will cause problems with the boards unless they are re seasoned, you need the flooring to be kiln dired,

    Thanks for reading, I will appreciate any advise on this subject.

    cheers.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    5

    Default

    ok thanks gaza for your prompt responce.

    With leaving 1.5mm gaps each metre, would it be possible to leave say .2mm gaps between each board using thin packers? or would this look wrong?

    I was thinking I could deep cut the 50mm board 3x by bansaw. could this be done and sticked to airdry then planed then put through the thicknesser after a period of time?

    also, how do you mean end match the boards to save material?

    open to any other advice.

    thanks.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Exclamation

    step #1 : Make sure the floor is dead dry!

    step #2:Gaza is on the money, read what he says and go to the reno forum.

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