Thread: How To...Make a rotating timber joint Lock and Release - Help

Just looking around on the net I came across "Cam Clamps" now these are usually metal and at this stage have no idea who would sell these in small qty's - but I'm wondering if anyone might of found a simple design made from timber?

As you know they are for light applications and this would/ could do the job? If you have any other ideas...?

Thanks

The simplest way is to use a stay to support the shade frame at whatever angle you choose to place it so you triangulate the shade frame and vertical frame. This would normally involve a slot in the frame vertical, then use coachbolt/wingnut through slot into stay to lock the shade frame. The slot could be achieved as a retrofit by adding another vertical either side of the vertical frame offset by spacers slightly thicker than the bolt diameter, or you could drill a few holes in the existing vertical and use a bolt in the end of the stay as a pin to engage the holes.

Using a bolt at the top junction as you have forms a hinge which could not be expected to lock the shade frame into an elevated position for a reasonable time.

Re cam clamps, if you have found them on the net, you will see how they work. Basically a solid metal cylinder drilled and tapped to match the bolt being used, with an eccentric cam mounted around this providing a long handle for significant leverage. Generally all metal or plastic cam/handle over the metal cylinder. With enough gear you could make something to work as the cam from hardwood, housing a connector bolt style barrel nut as the threaded cylinder, but I think the work involved would make it cheaper to buy them, particularly if you dont have a lot of gear to make them. Minimum equipment would be bandsaw or jigsaw to cut out, spindle sander to finish and shape, and drill press and bits to drill hole for barrel nut.

Thanks Malb
- Thats a good idea - Just thinking it through and looking at how stays work and how they could be simplified in timber. Definitely need a "locking" setup yet simple and quick to mffgr?
I also thought of a for of a "L" plate that could be used to prevent max angle - placed between the "arms" with the bolt through the centre. The plate However it would prevent max movement in one direction and I need nearly 200deg plus - so it can fold down out of the way Kind of like a butterfly design?
Still a good thought - Thanks

Well I had a go with a "Scissor Stay" and then Decided that is would be in the way of folding down. So I tried a thin design plate - (Template) to try.
GP Roof Sup1 old.jpg To this GPRSup 1New.jpg The final "plate" could be Galv and If I can get the profile smaller then it would stll protect the hands if needed to change the "angle of the roof to allow for taller plants? Well that's the thought!

I had no idea where you were going at the start of this discussion, then you posted the photos of your template and it all became clear.....

If you are going to make it out of sheet metal, you may find it better to make the metal part as a complete circle with one centre hole and a series of holes around the perimeter. If you made all the adjustment holes in the arms & leg the same distance from the centre pivot the end user could easily adjust the width of the shade at the ends of the 'Y' . Also the angle of the roof section can be altered by fixing the arms relative to each other then just using one bolt/pin to set the roof angle.

You would only need the one jig to do the holes too - a centre pin in a board which is clamped to the drill press table, then just rotate the disk to advance to the next hole. It would even work with a metal punch such as a RW No.5 Jr.

Originally Posted by bsrlee

I had no idea where you were going at the start of this discussion, then you posted the photos of your template and it all became clear.....

LOL - yeh Sorry bout that - Photos help eh! Yes I agree with the circle concept - that was what got me thinking - a kind of "Index plate"? Then I still needed access to the "handles" of the recycled pots. They come off with a "load" of 5 to 10 ea. So I then cut down the shape and it was more noticeable that a "Y" be used and just use "Index Pegs" from left over 12mm pine rod which I can only get in 2mtr lens - and only use 750mm lens. Not keen on index pegs as they could get lost though? Hmmm? thinking.... My First thought was that in the WInter when less sun - (Over here anyway ;D) the roof section swings down under the bins out of the way. In Summer depending on the height of what was grown on the top rail - the Roof would lift higher to keep the shade cloth away from, tender/taller plants etc. If anyone else can see a way of doing this using a more simplified means or fitting - then please "Step forward" Thanks Guys - all good ideas gratefully received.

Got to like the use of the empty juice bottles I use the same cut to the bottle for gutter cleaning out just hold the handle and away you go.
But back to your problem
First thought was a wire(coat hanger) attached to the top of the post and looping onto one in a series of protruding screw heads in the arm, Change the screw = changes the angle. Need 4 per stand. Simple and quick to make....

Anyway I keep the thinking cap on
All the best with it

Russell

Update - I ended up using a 'strut' method with Allow flat bar (one pce to the opp arm 'slotted one end' and another to the vertical frame member 'not slotted' - time will tell It's rust proof and fairly strong. Longer term the 'roof' frame will do for the colder season with a "Frost Cloth" used and if not required at all the struts are bolted and the 'slot pce's can drop down.

Cheers

Thanks everyone.