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Thread: Router or Drill
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11th May 2007, 08:33 PM #1New Member
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Router or Drill
I will be drilling some 1/2in dog holes in my benchtop this weekend and I was wondering whether people would recommend router with a 1/2 in straight-cut bit or a spade bit in an electric drill.
Bench-top is Vic Ash and Jarrah, 60mm thick.
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11th May 2007, 09:38 PM #2
Nigel, I reckon the preferred method is router, but the 60mm depth could be a problem here, I don't know of any 60mm x12mm router bits.
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11th May 2007, 10:13 PM #3
the problem with most straight cut router bits is that they are not intended to plunge directly down. Therefore they are not good at all for boring holes.
If all you have is a spade bit well thats the one.
the problem is you want dog holes to be accurate, straight & square.
spade bits arent realy into accuracy..... in the wood drilling world the spade bit is the butcher.
you would be better of with a brad point or a standard sharp twist bit.
either way setting it up in some sort of press is the go.
when I drilled mine, I used my electric hand drill set up in one of those drill press stands...I swung the drill over the back and clamped the base to the bench.
1/2" is a bit small for bench dog's isn't it..I thaught 3/4" was more the go.
at that size you strat talking about carbide boring bits or saw tooth forsteners.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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11th May 2007, 10:17 PM #4
I would use a Forstener bit over a spade bit. Agree with Soundman, 1/2 " is too small for dog holes. Buy one of those cheap plunge attachments for your drill to ensure that you get a vertical hole.
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11th May 2007, 11:09 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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11th May 2007, 11:26 PM #6
Hear, hear, I tried one years ago - waste of money, lesson learned.
Don't be shy to use some old technology like a brace and bit. You get a lot of torque and it doesn't take too long. It is also fairly easy to keep it square. Just drill from both sides (last 10mm once point is through) to avoid tearout.
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12th May 2007, 11:09 AM #7
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12th May 2007, 12:20 PM #8
Agreed Craig, a vertical hole is possible. With the unit I had, even from being new out of the box, it stuck on its posts and would not slide smoothly. This meant that the base would judder and slip causing the hole to either start off center or the edges would elongate, drilling a slight ellipse. After a number of tries I gave up and went back to using two squares.
My guess is the material used in the slide bushings was very poor quality, causing the frequent jams. There may be better quality available, I'd look for steel posts and brass bushes at a minimum. I'd certainly try the action of the slide before handing over cash.
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12th May 2007, 01:02 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Still waiting for my TCT Auger bit to arrive but when it does I'll be using it in my hand held elec drill with a guide block (drilled in the drill press). A bit like this only with a 19mm hole and some alignment marks.
Dan
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12th May 2007, 01:10 PM #10
Dan am I missing something here?
Your link takes me here:
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Jig for Threaded Inserts & Making Raised Panels
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12th May 2007, 01:20 PM #11
This is the pic I think he meant, except with a bigger hole (without the bolt) to guide the bit.
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12th May 2007, 01:33 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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12th May 2007, 01:38 PM #13
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12th May 2007, 01:40 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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Sorry, like Groggy says .
Dan
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12th May 2007, 01:44 PM #15
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