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Thread: Router lifts

  1. #31
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    The Europeans are streets ahead of everyone when it comes to stuff like this. I first saw the tilting router around the time Mike's electronic router was being built and posted a link on it and RUWI have RT's with multiple spindles all on the same table plus specialist routers on very small tables. Have a look in VIMEO for the stuff that RUWI do. ruwi in videos on Vimeo

    CHRIS

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  3. #32
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    There must be a reason why I do not need one of those.

    I just cannot think what it is!

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluenose View Post
    I'm looking to do the same but was just planning on using the Triton router (when I can find one!) which has built-in depth adjustment.

    Any reason why this isn't a good idea for a simple lift?
    I Have been using the Triton setup for about 10 years, probably not the fanciest setup, but has never let me down and I have seen a need to look at a different option. Mine see's heavy use as well.....the biggest pain is you have to reach in under the table and lock/unlock when making depth adjustments.

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluenose View Post
    I'm looking to do the same but was just planning on using the Triton router (when I can find one!) which has built-in depth adjustment.

    Any reason why this isn't a good idea for a simple lift?

    Me, too. I have been doing that for over 30 years but using a Makita router. (See Graeme's Strategy in Post #15 above.) Works fine, but a little cumbersome to adjust.

    Many (most) routers have depth adjustment. Forumite Derek Cohen has, over the years, built a compelling case that the best routers were and still are Elu brand. Elu was taken over by de Walt some 20 years ago, and the routers were rebranded as de Walt but are essentially the same. Worth searching for Derek's posts.

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Me, too.
    And me. I have the older Triton router that doesn't have the through the base adjustment, in a Kreg table. I bought it all perhaps 15 years ago, and used it to make some of the trim for our house. It worked perfectly for that job, and still works today. I didn't really use the speed adjuster, which is said to be the Achilles heels of this router, nor did I adjust the height too frequently because most of the trim was the same. After that the machine was only infrequently used....

    Recently I have started using it again, but now it is used for stuff that requires frequent bit changes and adjustments. Also, in the intervening years, I have had 3 lots of spinal surgery and bending down has become more of a chore. The "under the table" adjustment is now a distinct issue. I raised the table height to make it easier, but then found that it's (obviously) harder to see the cutter when using things like box joint jigs. For freehand trimming, or other jobs where the work is flat on the table, it's OK, but for anything where the workpiece is "tall" it starts to become an issue.

    Also, and this is common, the phenolic plate on my Kreg table has warped slightly. It's an older plate where the inserts are held by two screws.

    The result of all the above is that I am looking to update my system to something where I don't have to bend down....

    Having said all the above, if bending down isn't an issue - or if you get the updated Triton with "through the base" adjustment and the alleged problems with the speed control have been fixed - it is a very good system. If you need to swap the router in and out on a regular basis it's less than ideal (even worse if you mislay the spring that has to be taken out of the router for upside down usage), but I have found that a small Makita "trimmer" I bought on special from Bunnings a few years ago copes with a fair amount of my out-of-table requirements. The Triton also comes (or did when I got mine) with a dust shield that works perfectly well upside down, so a "Y" in the dust extractor line allows dust collection from the fence and below the table, which works reasonably well most of the time.

    The "below the table" height adjustment also allows the bit height to be adjusted whilst the workpiece, or a jig, is still on the table. That can't be done with "through the table" adjustment, although you can drill holes through jigs that never need to be moved. Whilst I now find bending down to adjust the bit is (literally) a pain, the ability to make adjustments no matter what is on the table is, I have found, very useful. As a result I find myself strangely drawn to the (hideously expensive) Jessem tabletop with the adjuster on a wheel at the side.......

  7. #36
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    My father had a health issue that made accessing the table router for adjustment or a bit change a nearly impossible task so I built a table that hinged one end so the router was accessible from the top. The router was fixed to the frame and not the top.
    CHRIS

  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    My father had a health issue that made accessing the table router for adjustment or a bit change a nearly impossible task so I built a table that hinged one end so the router was accessible from the top. The router was fixed to the frame and not the top.
    The actual bit change on the Triton/Kreg system is very easy, as the spindle self locks when raised to the top. That means the updated version of the Triton, with through-the-base ("above table" when upside down) adjustment, can be cranked up from above and the bit easily changed. The same applies for adjustment. Unfortunately the on/off switch and speed control still require access to the machine, so bending down! Worse still (from a bending viewpoint) the on/off switch has a safety cover that I believe plays a part in the spindle lock, so you can't even bypass it with an "above table" switch in the mains line.

    For me, the ideal solution would be the Jessem tabletop with height adjustment on a wheel at the side, fitted with a VFD driven spindle motor that was controlled from above the table. All adjustments to height, speed, on/off and bit changes would be done from above.

    The trouble with things like this is that what is ideal, or even possible, for one person may not suit (for various reasons) another. A long time ago I had very limited space, and I seriously considered making a router table in an old sewing machine stand, such that the top lowered in to the cabinet and became a flat workbench. Now I have lots of space so such a thing would be completely unnecessary, although still quite cool!

  9. #38
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    Chris:

    I was thinking the same thing but a top on gas struts that lifts the router with it. We are all getting older and if we want to keep doing this we have to find ways to adapt.
    I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
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  10. #39
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    Let me share my experience with the Triton TRA 001:

    I bought a JessEm top+fence and installed the Triton since I wanted the through the top bit change and height adjustment. I used both fence and downdraft dust collection. The MDF downdraft eventually plugged the router's plastic height adjust mechanism and I had to replace it. Twice. I also replaced the lower bearing and the power switch. Twice. Dust kills this router fast.

    The router has a power switch lockout when the bit is elevated into the self-locking range (single wrench bit changes). You have to release the height lock too before raising the bit, and remember to tighten it once you have the bit height set. Otherwise the bit height setting will drift, ruining your work piece.

    Apart from the dust problems, the adjuster is a little bit crude too. I don’t know if you can even find a TRA001 new anymore. Parts remain available from the UK.

    My router table is mostly sidelined now that I again have a spindle moulder. If I was ever going to make another router table for any kind of frequent use I would adopt Chris Parks' water cooled spindle design. It’s elegant and robust, not affected by dust and the ER collets allow using odd size endmills etc.

    On edit…I should point out that I flogged that router. My home has lots of frame and panel work, and 25 six-panel doors. And 30 shutters. All of that was done on that router table. As well as custom mouldings and three garage doors. I think I emptied the dedicated dust extractor bag maybe 20 times during the build. Sometimes 3 times a day. So take that into consideration if your work doesn’t run to dozens and dozens of mdf sheets and miles of joinery timber.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  11. #40
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    I think my Dad's table pre dated the Triton routers. Greg, what advantages do you see a commercial router lift has over a rail version?
    CHRIS

  12. #41
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    I don’t see any advantages Chris. Maybe for people who want plug ‘n’ play and who dislike fabrication chores.

    I had a first generation Woodpeckers lift until about 9 years ago. The chain drive was OK, but the value wasn’t there. I am a big fan of rails and actuating screws like your design. As far as the Ruwi tilting goes, I have had that feature on spindle moulders for about five years, off and on. Never used it.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  13. #42
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    Thanks Greg, I was just curious about your thinking and what if any advantages a router lift had over the rails.
    CHRIS

  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by homey View Post
    More for interest than anything else. Sauter make router lifts, one of which (OT3.0) is designed to allow the motor to tilt at up to 45 degrees. Made in Germany, not cheap but they get good reports. Woodworking Tools - Buy Online - sautershop

    They also sell Sauter, Mafell and Suhner router motors. One of the Sauter routers has an interesting toolless bit changing system Sauter FM1000-OFL router motor - sautershop

    This site (UK based) has some very interesting stuff that we don’t get to see in Australia. Worth a browse.

    There is a range of router motors with varying power outputs. I get the impression that European users are more likely to match their motors to the type of work they do most frequently whereas we are more likely to stick the equivalent of a V8 under the table. Just my impression - might be way off beam - but supported by what I’ve seen in professional shops in the UK (pretty small sample, though). Perhaps it’s to do with the softer timbers there?

    I’ve been tempted, but not yet jumped

    Best regards,

    Brian
    Oooooh that's sex on a stick. And the Sautershop does have some cool .

    I can't think why I'd ever want to tilt other than a variable or especially long chamfer though. I'll keep thinking..

  15. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluenose View Post
    I can't think why I'd ever want to tilt other than a variable or especially long chamfer though. I'll keep thinking..
    Only this afternoon I was contemplating a table design that incorporated mortise and tenon joints on a 45degree angle.......

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluenose View Post
    I can't think why I'd ever want to tilt other than a variable or especially long chamfer though. I'll keep thinking..
    As soon as you have it, you'll wonder how you ever did without it!

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