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  1. #16
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    So, today I actually got around to the job. (Funny how seemingly minor events can really upset the apple cart. )

    I simply hot-melt glued it to some known-squared stock and ran that through the TS. It worked well enough that I can use it, but there's some deviation caused by the differing thicknesses of glue.

    (I know, I know. But trying to accurately HM glue a 2m long dowel down in one action on a cold day isn't as easy as it sounds with only one pair of hands.)


    The more embarassing part is that my next step is to drill another 2m dowel with 1/8" holes at 12.5mm intervals for most of it's length.

    Now I'm thinking I should've taken the time to make a cradle in the first place.

    Still, if I do that I can then run yet another dowel through the TS in it and see if that's any straighter than the glue job. It could still be my fine kerf blade playing up after all... it's past time to retire that to my scraper pile.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    ....

    The more embarassing part is that my next step is to drill another 2m dowel with 1/8" holes at 12.5mm intervals for most of it's length.
    ...
    I had to drill some 5mm holes 25 mm apart down several 15 mm battens; so I made a simple jig for the drill press. [After I stuffed up a batten free handing!]

    Jig consisted of two battens (from the above batten) screwed to a piece of 3mm MDF so that the batten I wanted to drill would slide smoothly inside. Plus two holes exactly 25 mm apart drilled on the centre line of the MDF. Clamp jig onto drill press so that the first hole aligned with the same 5 mm bit in the drill press. And a 50 mm piece of 5 mm dowel aligner, sanded marginally undersize and slightly sharpened on one end in a pencil sharpener.

    Drilling Jig.jpg


    Technique is very simple:
    • Mark position of first hole near end of batten,
    • Slide that batten into jig until hole position mark centred under drill hole in jig,
    • Drill first hole,
    • Advance batten through jig until hole just drilled is visible through second hole in jig,
    • Insert alignment dowel,
    • Drill second hole,
    • Advance batten and repeat until all holes drilled.


    After I had drilled a 2400 mm batten, I found that I had an accumulative error of about 14 mm. This suggests that the two holes in my jig were actually 24.85 mm apart rather than 25 mm. Not material in my case! [The error a mere of 0.15 mm accumulates!]

  4. #18
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    That's pretty much exactly what I'd planned to do!

    Acceptable margin of error for this'll be +/-0.5mm per hole, so plenty of wiggle room so long as I keep an eye out for additive errors creeping in.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  5. #19
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    Some clever responses in all these.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    That's pretty much exactly what I'd planned to do!

    Acceptable margin of error for this'll be +/-0.5mm per hole, so plenty of wiggle room so long as I keep an eye out for additive errors creeping in.
    One tenant in surveying is "work from the whole to the part." In other words - make sure the overall measurement is precise and accurate at the required 2400 mm. Then break the task into sections to control accuracy and precision and limit the effects of any errors.

    There are also other potential errors - the "fit" of the pin and in the wear of the "registration" pin & hole that will change over time with use. Any slop will create a potential linear and angular error which on simple probability could be over or under.

    Use a similar setup & technique to Graeme's, but break up into say 12 bays of 200 mm to limit the accumulation of errors. Mark the 12 bays of 200 mm on the dowel and add one more hole to the 3 mm MDF "template" at 200 mm. Drill all the 200 mm spaced holes first then use them as the "first" registration hole for each bay. Make a dummy run of one bay on some scrap to check accuracy.

    As you are using dowel, make sure you don't introduce angular error - a twist / spiral into the line of holes buy using an additional "guide pin" and use the guide pin & registration pin as "boning rods." Clamping a secondary fence to align the guide pin would help.

    Simply swaping the 3 mm MDF to say 12 or 19 mm MDF (or hardwood even better) will improve alignment and registration accuracy.

    If you want to improve accuracy even more, for say tasks like cribbage board holes make a template with all holes per bay marked accurately then drilled in the template.
    Mobyturns

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  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    ...
    Use a similar setup & technique to Graeme's, but break up into say 12 bays of 200 mm to limit the accumulation of errors. Mark the 12 bays of 200 mm on the dowel and add one more hole to the 3 mm MDF "template" at 200 mm. Drill all the 200 mm spaced holes first then use them as the "first" registration hole for each bay. Make a dummy run of one bay on some scrap to check accuracy.
    ....

    Nah; not necessary.

    I just redefined the target hole spacing as 24.85 mm between centres. It was spot on!

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Nah; not necessary.

    I just redefined the target hole spacing as 24.85 mm between centres. It was spot on!
    24.85 mm +- 0.005 between centres.
    Mobyturns

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  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    24.85 mm +- 0.005 between centres.

    With my precision level it was 24.85 +- 0.0005, most definitely.

  10. #24
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    A drill press vice set to a slide fit, mark the hole centres on the top of the jaws and start drilling.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    A drill press vice set to a slide fit, mark the hole centres on the top of the jaws and start drilling.

    You must have far better eyesight and steadier hands than me, Rusty.

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