Thread: Rustic Coffee Table

you could use M&T or dowels
I have fitted large dia dowels with a whitworth thread and screwed them into the top (glued as well)

Yep, that's a good definition of rustic.

can't wait to see it finished, it's gonna look great! I really like the look of breadboards.


I have the same problem attaching the chunky legs to the camphor laurel eatery bench. The benchtop was thick enough that I could route a leg-shaped rebate but I still want to attach the benchtop to the legs somehow. I think your idea of covering with some feature wood is good.

cheers
RufflyRustic

Originally Posted by LineLefty

... how do I attach the legs to the top sans aprons?

I wouldn't use screws: they'll loosen in no time flat, especially into endgrain.

Without an apron those joints are going to have to be mighty strong. I would use wedged through-tenons, and allow the top to overhang so the mortises are not too close to the edge. Align the grains of the legs to the grain in the top, and put the wedge in diagonally across a single square mortise for each leg. Or go with double M&Ts with traditional wedges each side of the tenon.

Gidday Lefty

I'd go Wedged loose tenons with some kind a decorative dowell pin (square circular......what ever you like) the dowell goes well with a rustic look!!!

Regards Lou

The other option is to build a cross structure diagonaly between the legs.
Legs & cross structure stand independant of the top.
Top held on by usual devious means.
M & T into the top corners of the legs.
You could taper the cross members toward the middle If you felt keen.

It would give you the strength & durability of an apron table without the apron being visible unless your head is between your knees.
It would also allow you to place the legs anywhere in relation to the edges.

The ikea ones just have a screw holding the leg onto the bottom of the corner. The leg just screws in. Not particulatrly durable.

cheers

another option to add stability is to fit a low magazine rack

(Jargon-nazi mode on): I would define rustic ( in woodwork) as the constuction of furniture from natural twigs and branches, usually with the bark left on.

I think what we're after here is something like: Original post-industrial piece crafted from recycled native timber, displaying a rich history of use through the retention of wear features. Available in a variety of quality finishes including... (JN mode off).

I'll second soundman's diagonal rails as well. It'll save you a world of hassle to build, and in the long run-when your table is used as a cubby, or boat or dance floor- you'll be glad of the strength.

HAND,
Rusty.

I was hoping to get away without M&T work. Choping,say 50mm square mortices in 2inch jarrah will be.................labour intensive. My 1/4inch Oshito router, I wouldnt even try.

Admitedly though, wedged tenons throguh the top would look smashing.I wouldnt do them diagonal though. I dont want any pressure on the glue joints in the top. My jointing is "rustic".

You don't reckon my screw and then inlay work will be strong enough? I've got some 10cm square drive screws. Four of them would be pretty strong.

Soundman, I cant quite visualise what you're saying, I'll read it for a fourth time and try and work it out

What about beadlock straight into the top from underneath?

It's quite funny how this rockhard thick jarrah makes normal sized tools feel inadequate. My router doesnt have the guts and the bits arent long enough, My tiny little mortice chisel wont cut it, My little 900mm long F-Clamps, which did fine for pine stuff will need to make way for some stronger pipe-clamps. Bailey planes just dont like the wavy grain. Even my humble pencil is outdone. I cant see the marks!

The only thing that is performing A1 is the HNT jack. Beautiful!

I would feel a bit antsy about screws in end-grain. Even though coffee table legs provide less leverage than dining table legs, I reckon screws would tear out over time- although I can't speak from experience. Maybe a variation on echnidna's threaded dowels would be the next best thing; just four longish dowels glued into each leg through the top. Only needs a drill, and you can still inlay over it if you don't like the look.

Actually, if you leave your dowels 10mm or so short (i.e. below the surface of the table top) you could bang in some decorative square pegs. They look a lot less 70's, and more post-industrial. Or rustic, if you like.

Regards,
Rusty.

How would I do the large thread though? Would a normal tap/die be strong enough?

A big chunky dowel should do the trick
You can just plane off the endgrain and leave it as an interesting 'inlay' in the top.
Hopefully drilling 1" holes in your jarra will be easier than cutting mortices?

End up with something like this from the top? Or else leave them short and fit a decorative plug?

Cheers

Ian

Hey Ianab,
This makes huge sense to me and looks darn good too, as well as explaining one definition of rustic

What do you reckon LineLefty?

thanks
RufflyRustic

I like Ianab's idea, and his pic!

Another option is to run diagonal braces between the tops of the legs, so they won't be seen. Join to the legs by m&t or some other strong joint (routed blind dovetail?), even screwed as well. Where the braces intersect, chop out halving joints so they sit flush under the table, then screw blocks to the table, hard against the braces. Drill thru block and brace to take a dowel or pin and the top is held down on the leg assy.

Good challenge!!