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Thread: saddle stool

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Hobart, Tasmania
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    Default saddle stool

    Hi,

    After a couple of hours I've found lots of photos of my next project but no plans of any description.

    http://www.stoolkits.com/images/18-saddle-black.jpg

    I was hoping that I'd be able to find a plan i could use/modify to increase the likelyhood of success.

    It all looks pretty easy except for the angles associated with the splayed legs.

    I've got a book from the library that explains (as clear as mud) the process for determining and cutting the appropriate angles but I'm hoping someone could direct me to a similar plan or article that may help???

    I'm a little afraid that if I design and construct I'll end up with a stoool that looks strange because the agles I've used arent quite right...

    Any help/suggestions very much appreciated!

    Thanks

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Hi Andrew,
    The legs on those stools are at a simple angle to the seat bottom, so it shouldn't be too difficult to get them near enough. If you cut and fit the stretchers accurately, that will keep the legs in line, and the joint into the seat doesn't have to be a heavy-engineering project, just sufficient to keep it together when you pick it up. I'd say a 25mm mortise would suffice.

    I can think of at least 3 ways of doing it. The first is all handwork, chopping mortises in the seat with a chisel, and fitting them with tenons cut on the ends of the legs. Make a block of wood the correct angle, and use it as a guide to chop a mortise a bit narrower than the finished dimension, then use the guide block with a sharp chisel to pare the sides to the exact angle.

    You could use dowels, which would be harder to get right, IMO. You could drill the seat holes by hand, using a bevel gauge as a guide. This would also be a way of starting the mortise holes, if you went that route.

    If you have a drill press, a simple jig as shown below will get the leg holes at the right angle. It's a bit of a pain trying to clamp the job on my jig, because I made the top the same width as the bottom part - soon as I get one of those round-tuit thingies, I'm going to remake it, but in the meantime, a bit of that non-slip rubber matting under the job stops it moving, so I don't really need clamps. I use the jig for drilling the leg holes of Windsor chairs, which are all at different compound angles, so it's an advantage not having to clamp for each hole. That's with Forstner bits, which I find the best for this sort of job - if you intend using auger bits DEFINITELY clamp the job down, or you'll end up with a seat blank doing a whirly, and maybe making some painful contact with sundry bits of your anatomy.

    I'm thinking about doing a short tutorial on making Windsor chairs. I found the idea of all those compound leg and back spindle angles terribly daunting until I got stuck into it and did a few. I just need another round-tuit........

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Default

    HI IanW,

    Thanks heaps for all your suggestions! I reckon I'll go with mortices as I understand they are stronger and less likely to loosen as years go by. I'm always keen to make things bomb proof so they last for ever.

    I don't have a drill press so I reckon I'll just give it a go with a block of wood cut to the correct angle. It'll take me a while but I'll try and post a photo of the finished result.

    thanks again

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Hobart, Tasmania
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    Default

    hi again,

    so ive make the stool and am happy with the way all the joints have turned out but I'm not quite sure how to shape the top...

    The flat top of the stool actuallly has a indent in it to make it more comfy. does anyone have any suggestions on how to make it? l

    lots of work with a cabnet scraper? I;m not sure i fancy hours of scraping...

    belt sander?

    hmm im a bit stuck, any help appreciated

  6. #5
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    Hi Andrew,
    Lots of ways to skin a cat.... I like to use mostly hand tools, as long as the seat material is reasonable. A gouge and mallet and a small doule-radiused plane can handle most of the job (pic 1). Cutting ACROSS the grain is much easier and safer when removing large amounts of wood quickly. I find a judicious hole or two in the right spots helps with how deep to go. Some folk make up little depth templates, but I've done enough of them now I can get it close enough just by pencilling in an outline and using my eyes and fingers to judge depth and evenness. (pic. 2). Clean up is done with the plane, scrapers and a lick or two of sandpaper - I HATE sanding, so try to minimise that.
    Pic 3 - all done, outside shaped with draw-knife, spokeshave and sandpaper.

    Now for assembly, final sanding, and Bob's your aunty (pic 4).

    I have on occasions used one of those angle-grinder carvers to hog out the bulk waste, and a flexible coarse disc to clean up the worst bits, but much prefer the quieter, more controllable hand tools for most jobs.
    IW

  7. #6
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    wow thats impressive Ian!

    I'm sure its not as easy as you make it look but I 'spose I'm about to find out!

    The stool is made out of tas oak. I'll get myself a gouge (and maybe one of those funky little planes) and see how it goes!

    thanks again for your help. I'll put a photo of the finished product up.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew29 View Post
    ......... I'll get myself a gouge (and maybe one of those funky little planes) and see how it goes!
    Hi Andrew - you have to make the 'funky' plane - they aren't a commercial item, I'm afaraid. They do make the job a lot easier, I use it after the gouge, followed by a scraper. But the plane isn't essential - srapers, sandpaper and patience will get you there. Tas oak, if you have the right bit, isn't too hard, so you should be able to carve out the shape you want without too much sweat. At least you only have to do the one, and not 3 or 5 more for a set , like the chair.

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania
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    Default

    Hi Iain,

    Just thought I'd post a photo of the finished product.

    It all turned out reasonably well. The shaped top ended up being reasonably straight forward. I just used gouges,chisels and a scraper.

    The stool isn't 100% symetrical (the angle of one set of legs is a bit different) but I doubt anyone will ever notice. More one of those things that only irritates the person who made it.

    I reckon the next I make will be better again.

    Thanks for your advice.

  10. #9
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    Looks good. We all have those small blunders, & you're right, it's usually only the maker that sees them.
    Yep - on to the next & maybe more challenging project, eh?

    Cheers,
    IW

  11. #10
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    Default

    Hi,
    This is a stool I made recently. It is so useful. I got the idea after I had to repair an antique one. (old piano stool) so easy to move around the shed. I use it as a foot stool, reaching for things high and of course a seat.

    It was a good opportunity to use bits laying around and play with inlaying, to which I am addicted.

    cheers,
    conwood

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