Thread: Sanding discs (12") - velcro or glue on

Hi

I used to cut/polish rocks some time ago, and I used to use removeable contact adhesive.
I used it mainly for the flatness thing.

Al

Velcro for a 12 inch disk is very expensive. Personaly I have never seen a velcro disk that large. I don't doubt that they make them I just have never seen them in the catalogs or at the wood shows. I love them on my 5 and 6 inch orbit sanders. They save so much time. They do work very well on the small sanders. I have 5 disc sanders of different sizes. The glue comes in a round tube. All you do is peal the paper back a litte and hold it against the disk. Moving it back and forth for just a quick coat. It heats up and you can attach the disk very quickly. It is easy to remove. You can go through a lot of disk pads before you need to clean it. I think it is the only way to go. Hope this help
Richard in Califronia USA

At work we have a tight budget and the 9 inch velcro backed discs got a bit expensive. I now buy 9 inch wide, cloth backed sandpaper and cut the disc's out using a jig.

If cost is a concern then this is the only way to go, a bit more labour intensive though. It only takes a few minutes to attach the disc using adheasive. The glue I use is laminate glue, I cannot think of the name at present.

Daniel

I use the velcro backed 12" disks on my sander and I don't have a problem getting them on flat. In fact it is easier than the glue backed sheets provided that you remove the adjustable table for it.


BTW Richard they are the same price as the glue backed ones and readily available at all good tool stores.


Peter.

Using the velcro disc is handy if you need to change from one grit to another all the time but if you are only using one grit then the shearers glue with cloth backed discs are better.


One main disadvantage with the velcro setup is the squareness {if that is the word} of the sanding. When you use a velcro backing disc and the velcro disc you are about 4mm away from the main disc, this creates a sponge effect so depending on how hard or light you push against the disc may give you a finish that is not perfectly square and flat.

This is where the disc directly onto the plate works better because you have a firm back to push up against to give you a square and flat finish.

If you do a lot of segmented work this is the best setup.

If you use the velcro setup you can create slightly round faces on the part that is supposed to be flat and this shows up when you join the parts together and see very small gaps.

Depending on the glue you use if you are concered with it not glueing properly make a disc out of 25mm mdf and place this against the disc and plate and clamp them in place till the glue sets, this will hold it all flat and eliminate any bubbles and excess glue.

3M used to make (and probably still do) an aerosol disc adhesive which was easy to use. If you can't get that use aerosol contact - $9.95 in SuperCheap Autos.

For many years I used Bear Disc Cement (I think Behr Manning were taken over by Norton or 3M) but last year, when the can finally was used up, I couldn't buy any more. None of the hardware shops could source it and the counter jockeys had never heard of the stuff! So with lots of trepidation, I bought a velcro kit from Hare & Forbes, expecting to have all sorts of rounding over problems BUT, not a one!
Cheers,
Graeme

Thanks to everyone who responded. For the moment, until I get a feel for the amount of timber removed, I wil stick with glued on pads and consider the velcro approach later.

I tried out the sander last night, showing SWMBO why it was a 'needed' purchase. Naturally the first item which touched the spinnig disc was one of her finger nails - no fright on her part but I gently suggested afterwards that she stuck to the emery boards!.

Later in my "demonstration", fate got back at me. I wasn't holding a small piece of timber firmly enough and it flew up and I copped it on the mouth. Lessons learn't by all!

Thanks again
Burn

Originally Posted by burn

Later in my "demonstration", fate got back at me. I wasn't holding a small piece of timber firmly enough and it flew up and I copped it on the mouth. Lessons learn't by all!

Burn,


With the large disk sander it is essential that you hold the work against the disk on the down side not the upside. Then it wont fly up if you let go.


Peter.

A tip I saw in a magazine to get the use of two grits at a time was to get the dead centre of the two different grits and with a pair of sharp dividers scribe a circle of about 6" dia on each disk and keep scribing until it cuts through the disc from the back.

Then glue or attach the finer grit to the outside of the sander disk and the coarser grit in the centre and hey presto you have two grits on the one disk.

This what I have done on mine and it works well.

I've had no problem with the hook & loop system, its not difficult to get them on straight & flat & rounding isn't a problem unless you are pushing too hard.

If you use a cardboard jig you can change the disk without removing the work rest on most machines.

For PSA glue, ring Bostik & ask for techical section, & ask about it. Had to do this for someone a year or so ago, someone does still make it, don't remember if it was Bostik but they did know what I was talking about & where to get it. Was quite reasonably priced from memory, so would be a good option.


Cheers...........Sean, no longer hooked and loopy