Thread: sash v pipe clamps

Sash clamps are big heavy expensive and can apply realy strong clamping force.
Pipe clamps are cheap, cheerfull, can apply reasonsbly strong clamping force and are more flexible as far as length. Want a diferent length ? Buy more pipe.

tips & traps.
the plate clitch pipe clamps are better but They do not tolerate out of tolerance pipe diameters. Take the heads when you buy pipe.

Get yor pipe threaded both ends. you can then join your pipes to get more length with threaded joiners

cheers

Thanks soundman

Sorry, if I had done a proper search I would have found this thread that answers my question well.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ead.php?t=5213

Albert

Hi aabb

The sash clamps will give you a better clamp. Their design is stronger and will not bend as easy under the strain, but yes, the pipe is good for making the lengths to the job.

Cheers Russ

Ponys are the go, with the "red" pipe from metal suppliers. gal pipe is to slipery. Also, "super cheap auto" sells the chinese versions for $11.90 and if used with .750 mm pipe makes great small cheap clamps. Pipe is sold in 6mt lenghts so youl get 8 from a lenght

Wow, .750mm pipe, that's really really small.

http://www.frontlineengineering.com.au


whats this site got to do with pipe/sash clamps:confused: we are talkin good cheap clamps not thousand dollar plus pneumatic presses

Both types have a place in the workshop.
I mainly use sash clamps as they are stiffer than pipe clamps
but I have a pair of pipe clamps on 8 ft pipes for the odd big job
(and for squaring cabinets while I fit the backs)

Originally Posted by Lignum

Ponys are the go, with the "red" pipe from metal suppliers. gal pipe is to slipery. Also, "super cheap auto" sells the chinese versions for $11.90 and if used with .750 mm pipe makes great small cheap clamps. Pipe is sold in 6mt lenghts so youl get 8 from a lenght

Don't waste your time buying these from SuperCheap. The Threaded end didn't match up to the pipe, I was lucky though as it was the other end that I needed. Buy some off Soundman($13 each/minimum buy 2) or from Timbecon or Carbatec.

I was after an answer to the same question, more so cause I need a clamp that will do 1900, so im gathering the only way I can get that is to go with a pipe clamp?

I was looking at these ones at the bottom of the page, any good u think?

http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/...mps-325_0.aspx

Originally Posted by Just George

Don't waste your time buying these from SuperCheap. The Threaded end didn't match up to the pipe, I was lucky though as it was the other end that I needed. Buy some off Soundman($13 each/minimum buy 2) or from Timbecon or Carbatec.

George the SuperCheap Auto clamps have been fine and no problems with threads for me. But i only use them with 750 mm lengths so the stress on them is minimal.


And Malic if you are going to use long lengths use "Black pipe" as its a heavier gauge or the red pipe at least. Avoid at all costs the zinc covered pipes as they are way to slippery. And the ones on the Timbecon pages are the Torquita and are Pony copies. I haven't used them but for $14.90 they do look ok

Yep you could get some pipe clamps from soundman if the hopeless blitter could organise himself some stock!!!
still working on reliable supplies.
cheers

I have a modest collection of 600mm ~ 1800mm clamps - some sash ("I" bar), some pipe, some just hardwood with clamp-ends and appropriate locating holes drilled through at roughly 50mm increments. Of this genre, probably around 18 or so only - so far.

Curiously, the ones I use the most are the shop-made hardwood ones with clamp-ends; not so heavy as the iron sash-clamps, but more rigid than the pipe clamps. Also, if I need a different size, easy to make up.

I always try and keep a couple of pairs of new clamp-ends for "that special size" - but they always seem to end up in permanent position...

Ditto the timber beam clamps with the Record or Dawn heads.

If you have bar clamps already, the end stops can be removed and the sliding section removed. Two such sections can the be bolted together. Tee-section bars probably cannot, unless the pin holes are low enough (unlikely).

K-body clamps can also be joined. The sliding parts removed, and the bars bolted through the hole for the foot. Obviously one clamp is re-assembled as a spreader for this to work.

finaly the much talked about pipe clamps have arrived in stock.
see the sell and swap section for details.
cheers