Thread: SCM Mini 30 Information

Spacky,

Mini Max is an Italian company, part of the SCM group since 1986, so your machine cannot be too old. Their main web site can be found at:

http://www.scmgroup.com/private/bin/...chioId=MINIMAX

You can search aorund and they have a contact link, so maybe that will get you started in the right direction. They are generally felt to make very high quality tools.

Spacky,

Try Lee Gabbett at Gabbett machinery 02.98315044 - they're one of the Sydney agents for SCM & v. knowledgeable. SCM are a large company - normally they do industrial machines, $40k and up, but also produce the MiniMax range of machinery for home/hobby/small shops. Bob's link to the main page is a good one.

Is there a date of manufacture on the machine plate?

as well, what tools are in the combo - I haven't heard of this one.

Cheers,

eddie

ps: Google is a wonderful source of information. It's an SCM L'invincible Mini 30 and there's at least one person on this forum that uses one. I still see Dazzler's handle on a routine basis.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=14446

pps: re: information on how to use the machine, I put up a post yesterday linking to a good site with safe working instruction: http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...ad.php?t=34346

Originally Posted by spacky001

I have inherited a combination table. According to the side cover it is a SCM linvincibile mini 30. Unfortunately, my step-father never got the time to teach me how to use it. However, now that i am getting interested in using the table but cant find any information regarding this table. Ive done a google with not much luck. Can someone point in the right direction of somewhere that i could get info or someone that sells parts/service. thanks

Yep, I bought mine second hand in 1989 was made sometime in the 70's not quite sure when. The unit has a 30cm buzzer & thicknesser, Spindle moulder and 10" table saw with sliding table, a morticing table was sold for these as an optional extra. Does it have a manual as mine came without? Mine is 3 phase, mate has a single phase unit which his dad bought new in the 70's and has converted the spindle moulder to 3 phase.

Pity you weren't down here in Tas as I could run you through the operation.

Kev M

Thanks for the links, I sent an e-mail to SCM requesting some info. Hopefully they will get back to me. I will look for the manufacture plate tonight (hmmm.. I wonder where it can be?) and take a couple of pics and post.

The description KevM gives sounds like the right table. Possibly we could T up a time KevM to have a chat about it. There's alot of little questions I have.

I went toa joinery place this morning and they pointed me to hunter woodworking. so ill give them a go otherwise ill try lee gabbets this afternoon. I did price the cost of 3 phase to get put on at my house - $2500. I will try and source a converter i think. any suggestions appreciated.

ok, i have taken some photos with the attachments and what not. Still trying to work out where they go. I couldnt find the manufacture plate.

If anyone can clarify what some of the parts are and how the attach correctly.thanks heaps

will post photos when i work out how to shrink them

here they are

She needs a fair whack of elbow grease!
I see its got the morticer attachment.

Originally Posted by spacky001

here they are

Yep, seems to be all there......all of it ......in lot's of pieces. Bit of work (understatement) but will be worth it on completion. Send me a PM with contact details.

Kev M

Hi Spacky,

Unit looks complete(ish) as others have said. You've got a bit of work to do.

The big rusty ground bar that is parallel to the saw table is the support for the sliding table, which I couldn't see in the pics - perhaps the green 'T' shaped item is the sliding table support and the table was a convenient piece of 15mm ply.

If you need another length of bar (although this one looks OK) get it from Bohler Uddeholm, Macreadie Rd, Guildford.

<s>The drill in the mortising attachment won't work with that drill bit, you'll need left handed drill bits - carbitool sell them in the common dowel sizes, but my local tool specialist (Total Tools Industrial) got me in a set of standard HSS twist drill bits ground left handed - they're the cheaper option below about 10mm

(Beware, they run about $30/- a piece at about 10mm, approx 4 times price of a standard RH drill bit)</s>
Edited while Kev was typing his reply: The leg-of-mutton jointer guard looks as though you push the timber left-to-right across the jointer (opposite to common practice.) Either that, or you stand in front of the saw blade when working the jointer, and lean across the machine to finish drressing the board (counter-intuitive to good safety practice.) If this is the case, then the drill would work. KevM could confirm this.

The crescent shaped items in your photo of the loose parts are the critical ones, they're called a riving knife and are fairly critical to safe operation of the saw. It looks as though your step-father took them out so that he could fit a bigger blade onto the machine. The red blade guard attaches onto the riving knife, this style of guard is called a crown guard.

An alternative to you stuffing around fixing this is for you to send it to Gabbett and get them to put it right.

I bought a unit in a lot worse shape than this one and paid them to get it back together accurately. Money well spent, but not cheap.

Cheers,

eddie

Sliding Table - Is supported on the chrome Z shaped bar on RHS of photo 2. The table is on the LHS of photo 3(the bit with the scale attached to the side for angles), also shown on the far end of the machine in photo 4.

T Object - mine is missing, but looks like fitted to the spindle moulder shaft is a white oxide wheel, the T section piece needs to be reversed and holds the blades from the buzzer thicknesser for resharpening (mate's machine has this but missing from mine)

Saw spindle - rear of photo 2 is the saw spindle, maybe as Eagle says another has been fitted for a larger blade, this machine is only designed to carry a 10" blade. Refit the standard spindle and riving knife for safety.

Kev M

howdy,
I got one of these alittle while back and it is freakin' awesome. What a total beast but I've never had power like this. It sort of goes to your head when your joining 1/2" off a 6x6 beam.
I too am looking for info and accessories so I'll keep following the thread
Cheers
Luke

Wow these things must be breeding - same as my fathers one.

A couple of q's;

How do you change blades - is it with a couple of c spanners or similar to hold the main shaft and the collar on the end of the blade.

We cant seem to get the blade below the table top. (V casting contacts shaft while the blade is still proud of the tabletop) Do they use different sized blades to achieve this?

Eddie what sort of money did you invest in your rebuild if its not too rude
cheers

dazzler

Originally Posted by dazzler

Wow these things must be breeding - same as my fathers one.

A couple of q's;

How do you change blades - is it with a couple of c spanners or similar to hold the main shaft and the collar on the end of the blade. Theres a hole through the tabletop which lines up with a hole in the shaft. drop a piece of 10mm rod (I think) into it to stop the shaft rotating when turning the blade nut. The machine comes with a rod on a shaft with a plastic knob on the end for this purpose.

We cant seem to get the blade below the table top. (V casting contacts shaft while the blade is still proud of the tabletop) Do they use different sized blades to achieve this?
The machine is designed for a 10"(250mm) blade, also a buildup of sawdust in the well under the saw shaft can stop it completely dropping.

Eddie what sort of money did you invest in your rebuild if its not too rude
cheers

dazzler

comments added above

About as much as I paid for the saw, Dazzler - I got it for about 10% of new price.

Cheers,

eddie