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Thread: Seasoning olive wood
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13th August 2012, 08:34 PM #1
Seasoning olive wood
G'Day all, I was hoping one of the many smarter than I out there may have an answer to this.
My problem is that I have access to an almost unlimited supply of olive timber, however it is still growing (for now). I have tried in the past to cut limbs for turning or box making, but the stuff cracks like crazy, even when cut into blanks. The grain is unbelievable, if only I could get some usable bits.
So, any ideas on how to season it and minimise the cracking?Make something idiot proof, and they make a better idiot.
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14th August 2012, 12:32 PM #2Jim
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I'm waiting for a reply to this post. I have had real problems with old growth olive. The grain is as you say beautiful and it's great to turn but the more figure the more easily it cracks. I've microwaved small bits with fair results but the bigger stuff I reckon on sealing and leaving for the grandchildren to use.
Cheers,
Jim
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14th August 2012, 12:41 PM #3.
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The smaller and twisted the branches the more stresses it will be under and the more it will crack. For turning I'd suggest relieving the stresses by cutting it into shorter lengths and sealing the ends with wax. It does not need to be completely seasoned to start working it so you should not have to leave it to the grandkids.
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14th August 2012, 01:10 PM #4
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14th August 2012, 02:58 PM #5
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14th August 2012, 06:18 PM #6Jim
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14th August 2012, 06:27 PM #7
I intend making an early olive oyster chest at some stage, so I'll have to get my hands on some olive for the oysters, cross-grain mouldings and bun feet.
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I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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14th August 2012, 07:39 PM #8Jim
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14th August 2012, 07:48 PM #9
Much depends on the figure of the wood and how much sapwood is present, but Ø4"-5" works well for oysters and cutting into sections for making mouldings. Stock for the bun feet needs to be somewhat larger.
.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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14th August 2012, 08:39 PM #10Jim
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We'll see what we can do.
Cheers,
Jim
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14th August 2012, 11:43 PM #11
Ex-cell-ent!.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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16th August 2012, 10:51 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
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Outdoors, under cover in a cool location, our general rule of thumb is 25mm/yr.
So, drying from both sides a 50mm slab should be down to an air-dried moisture content of some 12 -14%, certainly in 2 years.
Slab the wood. Paint the ends with whatever junk paint/glue you have. Put stickers in between the slabs in a nice, covered, shady place. Every few months, you have to redo the pile so you don't get any sticker shadows.
Reads to me like the grain/figure will be well worth it (and it makes you look like an ace!)
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1st September 2012, 09:08 AM #13gravity is my co-pilot
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1st September 2012, 11:45 AM #14Jim
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