Thread: Shaped legs on small table

well ... I'd do it with my bandsaw - but if you want to use hand tools, I suggest you do some research into shaving horses and draw knifes

... bets of luck

jas

Originally Posted by jaspr

I suggest you do some research into shaving horses and draw knifes

... bets of luck

jas

thanks jas,

it looks really old school... fun though

A patternmakers' rasp is very useful for darkside shaping, eg the underside of the table shown.

could a spokeshave be used for that sort of thing?

and if so, would a flat or rounded one be more suitable?

a suggestion

depending on whats to hand, rough it with a bandsaw or jig saw

then use a flat spokeshave on the convex bends and a curved spokeshave on the (concave) internal bends

finish with a sander

to help a bit more cut from a single piece of timber and mark the top of all the pieces so the grain is the same way

hardwoods are easier to shape, the grain is closer

i guess i must be careful with "hardwoods" i dont know my australian hardwoods

i mean hardwoods which are traditionally used for furniture, ash and oak come to mind

Originally Posted by alibh

i'm thinking about what i can make at home with no large powertools (i live in a small 2nd floor flat).

anyone have any advice as to the best way to shape the legs?
and would pine be suitable?

and even what sort of tools (other than chisels/planes etc) might be really useful

For planar tapers you could purchase square cross-section stock, mark the tapers on two sides, and use a handsaw to cut near the line, then a handplane to get it smooth. The pic (top row) shows the sequence. You'll need some kind of bench and clamps though, as well as a ripping saw and a handplane (a #5 jack plane would be the one). A set square and a rule long enough to do the marking out will be essential too.

Planing long bevels like this in pine is great fun because you get nice long shavings and the finish planing down through the grain is really nice.

If you want a curved taper, a bowsaw can cut curves for you, then you'll have to get to work with either (or all of a spokeshave, rasps and files, drawknife, and sandpaper. (See pic, lower row).

Pine is very suitable, but it is very soft and will easily get dings. The advantage is it's cheap and easy to work, though harder to get a good endgrain finish.

For a table, top rails are a very good idea. The joints in the table you've shown would be quite difficult to make strong, whereas top rails will easily add alot of strength.