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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Shaping chair seats

    Hi there,
    I am about to shape or hollow a chair seat and am keen to know what people prefer to use for the task. I am actually making a couple of stools out out kauri pine (old floorboard offcuts) for my little boys.

    Zelk

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Some ways I have seen it done:

    1 if you have a good eye.... use a disk sander (I have done this one my self and is a safer procedure) Draw the outline and depth on the seat and sand it out.

    2.some use a saw... need to be careful no missing fingers please!

    ie set a radial arm or scms to just cut the surface and push the blank under it sideways to start the hollow. then lower it a bit and do it again (and again) until you get the right depth. then finish off with a sander. I guess you could set up a frame and do the same thing on a table saw too. Maybe even a circular saw?

    Cheers,

    Chipman

  4. #3
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    Oct 2006
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Traditionally an adze, scorp, inshave and round-bottomed plane were used to hollow seats and, other than the plane, they were a right pain in the proverbial too.

    Technology has advanced considerably and the best tools I've used for the purpose are an Arbortech (chainsaw disc) mounted on an angry grinder followed by, as Chipman said, various grades of sanding discs (again, mounted on the angry grinder).

    If you can find an old round-bottomed (squirrel-tail) plane, it would make a good job of it after using the Arbortech. Actually, I think Kuntz may make a round-bottomed plane (not the compass plane). I know I've seen new ones somewhere recently.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Toowoomba Qld.
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    Default

    I've done all the above, but also used a good carving gouge on one as well. As it was a chunk of old Euc. it was an exercise in patience!

    Good luck.
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

  6. #5
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    I've used a round-bottomed spokeshave. Sort of hold one handle still and move the other one in an arc.
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  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    melbourne
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    Default

    use a router mate
    definitely the fastest, u can actually make a jig that will support the router when doing it, read it on fine woodworking magazine but forgot how it looked

    will get back on you when i find it

    cheers
    H.S.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    Elimbah, QLD
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    Default

    I drew depth contours on the seat and then used a router with a 1/2" spiral upcut bit to rout away most of the waste. I then used a chisel to remove most of the remaining waste, followed by a random-orbit sander. The angle-grinder method is probably quicker, but more hazardous.

    Rocker

  9. #8
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    Colyton, NSW
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    Sam Malouf uses a bandsaw -fascinating to watch - but scary
    John

  10. #9
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    Jul 2005
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    Victoria
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    This thread is one way i have done it http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...3&postcount=73

  11. #10
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    Dec 2005
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    South Australia
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    Default

    As Woodwould said Arbortech and sanding disks works for me

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jchappo View Post
    Sam Malouf uses a bandsaw -fascinating to watch - but scary
    Can you explain the procedure please?
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    sydney
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    Default

    Many thanks to those that replied to the thread, there are clearly many ways to tackle this job.

    For speed, power carving seems like the way to go. As Woodwould pointed out, the use of handtools is tedious but I would imagine that there would be less chance of error. The hand tools that caught my attention were the cheap Carbatec Spoon plane http://www.carbatec.com.au/carving-t...ec-spoon-plane and the expensive
    Veritas pullshave, http://www.carbatec.com.au/carving-t...itas-pullshave.

    As far as power carving is concerned, I note the Abortech options http://www.carbatec.com.au/carving-t...ng-tools-tools and the Sabur tooth rotary tool options http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/..._id=1107144909 . If I go down the power carving path, is the resultant finish rough and does it require plenty of sanding.

    As the task of carving a stool seat is all new to me, is there much of a learning curve to power carving?

    Regards,
    Zelk

  14. #13
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    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Even the Abortech discs are capable of remarkably fine work, but ultimately you'll need to follow up with a plastic backing pad and consecutively finer sanding discs with final sanding being done by hand and with the grain.

    I like the look of those Saburr Tooth discs. I wonder what grit the fine one is equivalent to.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  15. #14
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    Jul 2005
    Location
    Victoria
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    Unless you are skilled and used to working with Abortech discs, they are a waste of time on chair seats, especially when cutting into soft Kauri
    Just use a ROS and 40#

  16. #15
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    sydney
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lignum View Post
    Unless you are skilled and used to working with Abortech discs, they are a waste of time on chair seats, especially when cutting into soft Kauri
    Just use a ROS and 40#
    Lignum,
    I actually have the Festool ROS 125 but didn't think of using it since timber to a depth of 20mm will be removed. I was hoping to use it for the final sand.

    Would you consider a Rotex or a Rotary Sander RAS 115.04 http://www.festool.com.au/mediandowe...69&AKTIVPROD=1 ,
    the dust collection is appealing.
    Zelk

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