For users of the traditional wooden spoke shave, you would be aware that in most cases, these blades have a slightly rounded bottom profile.

To resharpen these spoke shave blades:

I like to start this process on a 12 inch bench mounted disc sander, followed by floating glass - fitted with some 220 wet & dry.

Disc Sander:

1st step is give the blade a clean, straight, and uniform in width, cutting edge.
Now check that the back edge of the flat, matches the front profile. A majority of these older, used blades, have only been resharpened using a honing stone, and will not have a matching back profile, especially outside the cutting edge, towards the tines.
With the flat side of the blade facing the sanding disc, and the cutting edge pointing up, gently work the back area, including outside the cutting edge, till it matches the front profile. A few things to keep in mind when your doing this.Ist:you are only reshaping the back of the blade, so always avoid contact with front cutting edge. 2nd:Always work from the left hand side of the disc sander, this way the blade is continually being pushed down onto the tool rest.3rd: Always use a dis sander thats fitted with a tool rest.

Floating Glass:

Using a slightly rounded blade, I like to work the blade as if it were divided into 4 areas. Left side, Right side, Left of center, Right of center. I prefer to work the outside areas of the edge 1st, then work towards the center. Hold the blade with the cutting edge facing towards you.
The objective is to make contact across with the full length of cutting edge. This part of the process is where the time taken to reshape the back edge of the flat with the disc sander, repays you in dividends.

Honing Stone:

I have an oil stone that I have allocated to only hone these spoke shave blades. The top flat of the stone has been rounded slightly, to help with the honing process.
The stone is locked into an F clamp thats fitted with soft rubber shoes, then mounted into a bench vise.This allows me plenty of room for the tines to hang down when honing the bevel edge.
With my forefingers resting on top of the flat of the blade, and my thumbs placed on the back edge of the blade, I tilt the blade forwards until the cutting edge starts making contact with the surface of the stone. Re use the 4 part blade philosophy. Hone the bevel edge until a burr is formed across the full length of cutting edge. Flip the blade over and remove this burr.

Finish the resharpening process on a buffing wheel, or leather strop, using a suitable cutting compound.


regards: planemaker