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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Australia
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    11

    Default Sharpening stone

    Hi

    These questions are probably a little silly to most of you.
    I got a sharpening stone. One side fine and the other side rough.
    Its in a wooden holder block with wooden cover. All my other stones I keep in water. Always. Do I do the the same with this one? What do I do with the wooden holder?

    I also got a other question. A friend has a few types of planes, no 1,3 ,4 etc. I understand why smaller planes can be used to get in small spots/cut less wood but why do we need larger types and what other uses to the smaller types do?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bristol, UK
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,540

    Default

    A two sided sharpening stone in a wooden box, that will be a carborundum oil stone. Your friend has water stones. To use apply a little oil and work your tool back and forth. It is used as a prelude to fine honing on water stones where damage to the edge has been sustained.

    Planes, they are many and various. Considering what you may consider normal shaped planes. Yes small ones fit in small places (look up luthiers thumb planes), large/long planes are used to shoot an edge. They ride over any ripples taking the tops of bringing the board edge down to a smooth (and more importantly) straight edge.
    Dragonfly
    No-one suspects the dragonfly!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks for the help.

    So I suppose I need the proper honing oil or can I just use any oil?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    The liquid is a carrier to suspend smashed abrasive particles and microscopic metal fragments. It is not a "lubricant" meant to reduce friction. Lots of people have their favorite oils. Above all, it needs to be non-drying so it can't set up and make the stone surface sticky gooey. That rules out vegetable oils. Me? if & when I have to resort to an oil stone, I use some lightweight automotive motor oil. Pennzoil 5W40 at the moment!
    dr4g0nfly summed it up = ". . . where damage to the edge has been sustained."

    OTOH, I have some axes/hatchets and the like that get a final sharpening with an oil stone. That's really all the 'edge' they need for what I expect them to do.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bristol, UK
    Age
    66
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    1,540

    Default

    TJ,

    Whatever you've got to hand, 3 in 1 is my favourite. If you've a oilcan with something in it, it'll do.

    I don't recommend things like WD40 though!
    Dragonfly
    No-one suspects the dragonfly!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,524

    Default

    Pictures please!

    There are many types and qualities of old oilstones.
    There is a thread on here on the options for oilstone oil ... https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/w...oilstone-7085/

    There has also been discussion on cleaning stones that are oil-clogged ... maybe the same thread.
    (I have stuck one in a jar with metho for a week and shaken it every now and then)

    Cheers,
    Paul

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Allendale East, South Aus
    Age
    33
    Posts
    240

    Default

    I was always told to use Neatsfoot oil on oilstones, as - according to my old tech teacher - it helped to draw the particles out of the stone. Although, aeroshell w100 seems to work fine on my seldom used oilstone at work.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    11

    Default

    I can get a photo tomorrow but I did use the stone today with 3 in 1 oil as I forgot to check back here. The stone worked really well. I'm not that good at sharpening but I did get some sort of sharp chisels really sharp that could cut my arm hair which couldn't before.

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