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  1. #1
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    Default Short jigsaw blade - or is there a better option?

    I would like to cut f-holes into the top of a hollow guitar. I would normally do this on my scroll saw. Problem with this one is that the body is already together, so the back gets in the way. There is about 35mm clearance between the top and bottom, so my shortest jigsaw blade is too long. I don't really want to use a sheet of MDF or similar as a spacer, because the pattern is drawn on the guitar directly. Is it possible to buy very short blades? Is there a way I can safely and easily shorten one? Is there a better way to do what I want to do?

    Thanks
    The other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Bristol, UK
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    Default

    First you can grind a jigsaw blade down. I have one 1" long for running between floorboards to cut the tongue off tongue & groove boards.

    But

    I see problems with this idea.

    Scroll saw blades cut on the down-stroke, have very fine teeth for thin wood

    Jigsaw blades cut on the up-stroke and unless you're using a hacksaw blade one the teeth will be too far apart to cut the guitar top. All you'll do is splinter it to pieces.

    My first thought is live with what you've got but if that is not good enough try a Dremel with a router bit or similar, cut as near to the line you want as you can and carefully file the rest.
    Dragonfly
    No-one suspects the dragonfly!

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dr4g0nfly View Post
    Jigsaw blades cut on the up-stroke and unless you're using a hacksaw blade one the teeth will be too far apart to cut the guitar top. All you'll do is splinter it to pieces.
    You can buy "reverse cut" blades that cut on the down stroke with fairly fine teeth such as these: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-10TPI-Reverse-T-Shank-Jigsaw/dp/B002SQNXNK]Amazon.com: Bosch 4" 10TPI, HCS Reverse Tooth T-Shank Jigsaw Blade (5pk): Home Improvement[/ame]

  5. #4
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    It is actually 6mm plywood I will be cutting (not a solid wood acoustic top or anything) so I am not anticipating too much splintering. Am I likely to be wrong about that?
    The other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Default

    Plywood does have a tendency to splinter or fluff particularly on the cross grain, but as elanjacobs suggested you could try a fine tooth blade that cuts on the downward stroke. Cut the end off the blade if it is still too long (thin cutting disc on an angle grinder). An untidy cut on the underside presumeably would not be a big issue

    My first inclination was to suggest a laminate trimmer, which is just a very small router, with a 3mm straight bit. Clean up after with a rasp, file or sandpaper etc., again as per elanjacobs recommendation.

    If you go down the router track you could make up a template. Reverse it for the other side.

    If you haven't got a laminate trimmer or other small router the jigsaw blades maybe the way to go. As always experiment on some scrap first.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    kallangur qld
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    Default

    Peter,

    cut the JIG SAW blade slightly longer than the machine stroke, with the area to be cut score with a very sharp craft knife around the design, then cut inside the scribed line , and you should avoid splintering . The finer tooth blade you can use the better, 10-12 tpi sounds good.

    My 2 cents worth.

    Jeff
    vk4

  8. #7
    Join Date
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    BELL POST HILL, 3215
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    Default Splintering.

    Hi PS,
    As has been said, I think, yes it may Splinter badly.
    My thought would be to use Masking Tape.
    You still may see your Pencil Drawing, & as Suggested use, very carefully a sharp knife 1st.
    A Jig Saw is pretty rough, & could scratch the Top, as they Vibrate a bit.
    Just a thought.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  9. #8
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    OK, now I am wondering about using one of my finer router bits (I have a 3mm straight bit from memory) on my big router. I don't have a laminate trimmer, and my dremel doesn't have a router base (although now could be time to get one). I will ponder on this some more.
    The other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    3,003

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by petersemple View Post
    OK, now I am wondering about using one of my finer router bits (I have a 3mm straight bit from memory) on my big router. I don't have a laminate trimmer, and my dremel doesn't have a router base (although now could be time to get one). I will ponder on this some more.
    I routinely use my Dremel and plunge router attachment for things like this.
    Cost $60 delivered, here: Dremel Plunge Router Attachment (335-01) | eBay

    It's definitely worth considering buying one.
    The jigsaw is very likely to ruin the face of the guitar. I wouldn't risk it.

    You can get straight-cut bits/end-mills down to 0.050" in a 1/8" shank, and 1/16" is common, to suit the Dremel. I have a heap of both.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Dandenong, Vic
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    Default

    I vote router or plunging dremel route.

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