Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default Full Size Drawing

    Are there any good ideas on how to make full size drawings easier to read? I drew a full scale drawing on 3mm MDF and to be honest because the drawing is all the one colour (lead pencil) it tends to all merge and if you use a soft lead it also tends to smudge. There would be a limited amount of colour that would contrast enough to highlight the different sections so doing that is not as simple as it sounds. Any ideas to make the different parts stand out more?
    CHRIS

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    se Melbourne
    Age
    62
    Posts
    2,567

    Default

    Paint the MDF white before drawing in lead pencil. More than one coat of paint may be required.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    You could even buy white 3mm MDF to make it easier.
    What about using sheets of transparency film for different layers of detail; the basics can go on the board and all the fiddly bits can go on their own transparent overlays. Then you can remove the ones you don't need and just see the details you're after at any time.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,766

    Default

    The fine, .4mm, Artline pens work well.
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Like Handyjack said . I paint with white flat acrylic. Sometimes I draw in lead pencil but also pen gives a nice fine line . Red pen in parts helps separate important points . When the next job comes along where it needs full scale drawings I give the board another coat. If its full size things I may like to use again I do them on paper. Some of those drawings take 8 to 12 hours to do . Its worthwhile saving them sometimes.

    Rob

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    289

    Default

    A bit quicker and more temporary than painting. A strip of masking tape, more or less where your line goes, then draw on that.

    I've used that on bamboo bench tops where the finish would later be oiled.
    Also helps a little with tear out from saw blades.


    Regards
    SWK

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Enfield Guy View Post
    The fine, .4mm, Artline pens work well.
    Until you draw a line in wrong? I have thought of doing it in a harder lead then going over it with ink but using ink from the get go seems a bit risky. I will try the white paint idea, an aerosol can of flat white sounds like it might be worth a try. Then various colours could be used as well which would be a plus.
    CHRIS

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    I like 2H lead for drawing

  10. #9
    rrich Guest

    Default

    I had an instructor that demanded a full scale drawing before starting any actual work.

    The solutions were to use brown wrapping paper from a roll or the back side (Un-waxed or w/o plastic) of butcher paper.

    BTW - The butcher paper was a lot sturdier.

    The red pen idea worked very well on the brown paper. When you're sure of where the line goes, an 'Extra Fine Point' Sharpie is a great drawing pen.

    I have also used a piece of Luan from a shipping crate.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,552

    Default

    The tried and proven Old School method - draw in pencil, finalize in ink. The fine Sharpies on MDF work well. As said earlier, overlay transparencies for variables helps prevent confusion. These overlays are created the same way - pencil first, then ink.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    932

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Until you draw a line in wrong?
    Some of us just don't make mistakes!

    Packaging suppliers sell rolls of kraft paper in various thicknesses. I've got a roll of the 600mm wide 60gsm and it's great for writing on and protecting bench tops against stray drips of random liquids. No affiliation with the linked company other than being a happy customer. I think it's also going to take me a really long time to finish the 340m... They also have butchers paper in rolls and sheets.

  13. #12
    rrich Guest

    Default

    All BTW - Red ink can be "erased" with lacquer thinner.

    DAMHIKT

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Tallahassee FL USA
    Age
    82
    Posts
    4,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by swk View Post
    A bit quicker and more temporary than painting. A strip of masking tape, more or less where your line goes, then draw on that.

    I've used that on bamboo bench tops where the finish would later be oiled.
    Also helps a little with tear out from saw blades.


    Regards
    SWK
    I've also used masking tape, directly on the work material, in ink for visibility. Very convenient for test layouts, and erasure is easy by simply removing the tape.

    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,205

    Default

    Draw with knife or scalpel then using a chisel point 2H line it in.
    Machining in red, cores and loose pieces cross hatched and don’t get your contraction wrong.
    Oops this is furniture not patterns.
    Still a knife is a much better line, easier to set your trammels off.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 29th January 2016, 06:10 PM
  2. Restored QLD Maple full size bed.
    By Gravestone in forum RESTORATION
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 13th January 2016, 08:18 AM
  3. Midi vs full size.
    By Tim_N in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 5th August 2014, 01:42 PM
  4. Which full Size Lathe to Buy
    By keithg in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 14th March 2014, 12:58 PM
  5. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 28th March 2009, 04:57 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •