Thread: Solid timber kitchen cabinet doors options?

Make the doors with a hardwood ply and don't tell her.

Do tell her that you need to use rails top and bottom to keep the doors flat.

wish I could do that Bohdan..
Unfortunately she "wants to be involved" so won't be able to hide the material...
But also I wouldn't mind making it out of solid.. as long as I can figure out potential warping issue...

The only time that I have seen doors made the way they had a pair of braces that ran across the back of the door. The braces were dovetailed to the doors with stopped dovetail grooves.

I assume that they were assembled with the braces in place but the dovetails were probably waxed so that they were not glued in place.

Yeah I am afraid that pure solid timber door would be just one of those .. nice idea.. but in reality and practicality might not be achievable..
Unless someone has idea (example) of how it might be achieved... I am inclined to do it with solid timber border and hardwood veneer ply as middle panel... (as per Bohdan's suggestion)

I am currently in the process of an extensive kitchen makeover. However, the cabinets and drawers are essentially receiving new fronts. They were previously raised panels in Tassie Oak (on the right, looking tired after 25 years), and being replaced by Shaker-style frame-and-panel construction. This is a simple, clean look (better than flat, per se). The wood is USA Hard Maple ...

The original 25-year old kitchen ...



Unfinished and unglued - the first door made (19mm thick frames) ...




Construction details here ..

Kitchen doors





There is a break down of the doors in the link below. For this project, I lashed out on a Domino 500 (purchased directly from Europe, so it was much cheaper) - no way I was going to make 80+ mortice and tenon joints! The panels are solid, 1/4" thick (this has proved thick enough to remain stiff and solid), and the panels drop into a 1/4" groove, which was routered. I have finished the doors in a water-based poly to provide both durability and not yellow over time (oil will yellow).

Hand finishing water-based poly.

The installation so far ...







Lots still to do ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

If you mean completely flat doors, made from several laminated pieces then I've only ever made table tops that way ... and they're of course joggled (alternated grain to prevent cupping) when glued up and supported along all edges in service. If you mean traditional 5 piece doors, with flat panel inserts, I made cabinet doors that way for years. Even pantry doors were made using solid stiles and rails, granted the large ones had a central rail too.

Panel inserts were either prefinished plywood or veneered MDF if I wasn't lacquering them. Joinery was traditional mortise and tenon.

I'm still in touch with all clients and while other small issues have arisen over the years, (scratched paint, burnt benchtop, leaking tap, broken glass) no doors have ever warped.

thank you derekcohen and seriph1 some very nice work there
In ideal world i would like to laminate timber like table top.. but current knowledge of materials tells me I will be asking for trouble if I do that.. simply unsupported laminated board 20 mm thick just doesn't have enough meat in it to stay flat...

derekcohen style is perhaps the closest to the finish (and style) she wants without being raised panels... apparently she is over the curves and various shapes.. she wants it as simple (and flat ) as possible...

Cross bracing will be needed and as Bohdan stated I think the sliding dovetails would be the strongest. But in all honesty, still going to move and i'd just be using one of the plethora of panel products made specifically for kitchens. Nothing I hate more than seeing cabinet / drawer fronts not even and consistent. Especially if going for a sleek flat look.

Another option if you have the time is to make your own veneered panels up.

One other idea, if you are set on flat doors - build a panel and add a breadboard at each end. That will keep it flat and create a modern, interesting look.





The downside here is that the doors will be heavy - unless you make it a a thinner central section and a thicker frame.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Quarter sawn Tas Oak is pretty stable, as long as both sides are polished/sealed well and equally I think you'll get away with it

I have made solid cupboard doors with breadboard ends out of 19mm stock and they are perfectly stable. They were finished with clear lacquer on the face and painted on the back side.

Thank you guys...some very nice designs and ideas.. The weight might be concern in full solid timber, so Derek's design is now even more appealing.
Derek what sort of finish did you end up using ???

Derek what sort of finish did you end up using ???

There is a link above to a pictorial. I used General Finishes water-based poly, applied by wiping. It worked brilliantly.

Regards from Perth

Derek