Needs Pictures: 0
Results 1 to 7 of 7
-
27th June 2020, 11:20 AM #1Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2020
- Location
- Kingston, Tasmania
- Posts
- 13
a source of timber for picture frame mouldings
Hello All
After many years away from a previous occupation as a self employed picture framer, I have in the last few years slowly re-purchased equipment to take up the craft once again. I'm an artist and want to frame and mount my own works. My intention is to purchase a router table and make my own moulding profiles for frames. I'm bit of an amateur in the area of woodworking outside of framing, but am willing to give it a try.
....So, can anyone recommend a good (cheap?) source of timber that I could buy. I do have a small, portable table saw I could use to rip lengths, but would prefer already squared lengths of say max 50 x 50 mm, as I don't have room in my small shed to rip timber without creating havoc! Undressed timber is preferred, as its typically cheaper - I can plane down the sides myself. I live near Hobart, Tasmania.
Thanks
- Tom
-
27th June 2020 11:20 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
28th June 2020, 04:52 PM #2
If you want species like Huon pine, celery top pine, sassafras, myrtle, figured blackwood, etc, probably the best source is Island Specialty Timber at Geeveston. Give Chris Emmett, a ring on 0419 998 452 then go down and see him. The personal touch with Chris and his staff is worthwhile.
There are still several small timber mills within 50 kms of you, good for green sawn timber, but you will probably need dry.
Other sources that I use are:
- Uptons, Mornington,
- MacKay Timbers, Glenorchy, and
- Timber Wholesale Tasmania, next to the Showground.
With the demise of K&D, Bunnings are probably the most expensive.
-
28th June 2020, 06:10 PM #3Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2020
- Location
- Kingston, Tasmania
- Posts
- 13
Graeme.....thanks for all that info! Yes, will be wanting dry timber; and as I will be staining the mouldings black or a deep brown, I will not be needing quality timbers that highlight the features of the grain, colour etc.
The priorities are: knot free, soft to medium density but without a tendency to bow. Dense hardwoods can be a pain to cut with a foot operated guillotine and and joined with an underpinner - I could realistically only construct frames with those using a table saw and mortise and tenon (or similar) joins. But I will ring around and visit those suppliers closest to me, to see whats on offer.
Its a shame about Bunnings prices - they are only minutes away from me; and for many things hardware, they are about the only option in my area, excluding Mitre 10, which don't have the variety.
-
1st July 2020, 08:43 AM #4
I’m no expert on this but if your staining black Ramin is the stuff to use.
No idea where you’d get that in Tas.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
-
1st July 2020, 11:02 AM #5.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,793
Something to think about is that while natural wood appeals to woodies and a few people, most people will not care much about natural wood frames.
If you want a "budget" sideline for larger painted picture frames, MDF door and window frame architraves can be used.
It takes a bit of effort to make them look interesting but the effect can be very pleasing.
The time spent getting a decent effect is easily offset by the fact that the MDF is already largely profiled.
After a while router profiling becomes pretty boring and very dusty!
This frame was made from a door architrave profile.
White undercoat, forrest green top coat - par sanded back to expose streaks of undercoat, some gold paint trim and then a mat clear coat spray.
Venice2.jpg
-
1st July 2020, 12:03 PM #6Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2020
- Location
- Kingston, Tasmania
- Posts
- 13
...thanks for the reply BobL! It seems most architrave profiles are quite wide and not really the look I'm after. I will still look around, though not sure how well a join using an underpinner would be using MDF. 50mm would be the max width for my larger art works, with 30mm being probably the most used width. Most of my art will be under a mat board and glass.
I'm quite used to "boring" and repetitive tasks - done quite a lot of that throughout my life, so I can cope. Yeah - dust is certainly a concern, and wearing a respirator for any length of time is uncomfortable. My profiles will be very simple - mostly slight round overs with the mandatory rebating - hopefully two or three router passes if my Triton can handle it.
-
1st July 2020, 02:23 PM #7Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2020
- Location
- Kingston, Tasmania
- Posts
- 13
Similar Threads
-
WANTED:QLD. Source in Brisbane for Tas Oak picture frame moulding
By Xanthorrhoeas in forum WANTED & WANTED TO BUY - in AustraliaReplies: 9Last Post: 11th August 2017, 08:45 AM -
Picture framing equipment and mouldings
By pictureman in forum WOODWORK - Tools & MachineryReplies: 1Last Post: 24th March 2017, 07:57 AM -
Where to buy picture frame timber in Melb?
By woodwork_noobie in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 13Last Post: 3rd May 2012, 08:15 AM -
Help with timber picture frame finish
By tim_james_007 in forum FINISHINGReplies: 0Last Post: 14th December 2006, 10:07 AM -
Picture frame timber
By drago in forum TIMBERReplies: 1Last Post: 6th August 2004, 05:16 PM