specs for colorbond roof please

**ogden** · 16th January 2011, 09:30 AM

Hello veranda / pergola builders.

I am four-fifths the way to completing my deck and roof. (they used to call it a veranda). .

Posts, beams and rafters are all up. I am ready to place the battens (about 900mm centers) and then the colorbond cladding. (see sketch attached)

At the outer end of the veranda (away from the house) the rafters will overhang 300mm beyond the supporting beam. No fascia board., guttering will be fixed directly to rafter ends.

Question : exactly where should the outside batten be fixed ?

(a) flush with the rafter-end, or (b) a bit short of the rafter end say 50-75mm ?

At the inner end of the verandah (house end), the rafters are fixed flush with the supporting beam using joist hangers (see attached).

At this end, I would preferably want the cladding to extend say 100 mm beyond the supporting beam.

Likewise, where exactly should I fix that batten ? ........ flush with the outside edge of the beam ?

Ogden

**Stewey** · 16th January 2011, 10:45 AM

I used to wonder the same things!

If it was me, I'd make the bottom batten flush with the end of the rafters, so you can have a continuous board to tack gutter brackets to if you needed to, as it seems you're not putting a fascia board up.

However I'd prefer to have a fascia board along that bottom edge. Probably a 6"x1" or an 8" x 1". The top of the fascia can line up with the top of the batten, & the batten doesn't need to be right at the edge then. (That's 150 x 25 or 200 x 25 for the younger generation!)

At the high end, I'd put the batten away from the top edge, about the distance you want it to be so that you can attach the flashing down into the batten- like about 6" or 150mm centred from the top edge of the rafters.

Hope that helps!

Edited to add that I've just had another look at your picture-I'd lower the rafterhanger/joisthanger brackets by 1 1/2" or 40mm, so that the top beam can act as a bit of a batten if need be. There's not a lot of sense in attaching a 3" x 1 1/2" batten (75 x 40) over the top of a say an 8" x 2" beam (200 x 50).

I'd still then put the top batten away from that top edge, so the flashing fixings can go into it as well.

I would strongly suggest some flashing or bargeboard along that top edge. And the sides as well.

**dai sensei** · 16th January 2011, 10:59 AM

The batterns should be fixed to the rafter, not the supporting beam. They should be slightly back from the end, 25mm Ok, but it is primarily for strength and avoid splitting, so depends on the timber type. Also, as you are not using facia beam at front, the gutter straps should be fixed somewhere to the top of the rafter to avoid just end grain fixings. This means you will need to fix the straps before the batterns, as the batterns may need to be set back, or placed over the straps.

**ogden** · 18th January 2011, 07:23 AM

Thanks for all that vital information.

I have changed my mind and will now use fascia board.

At the other end, lowering the joist hangers is a good idea but i'ts too late to change that as they are fastened with flat head nails. (have you ever tried to remove those nails ?)

So therefore I am probably going to have to lay that end batten over the top of the 200x50 beam just to get a good finish for the end-flashing.

Ogden

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specs for colorbond roof please

Thanks dai sensei and Stewey

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