Thread: Square recommendation

Just remember “Don’t drop it”.

Enjoy it.

I was at McJings yesterday and they have some timber and brass traditional looking try squares there, I tested 8 of them and every single one was spot on perfect. Not bad for a $14 tool I thought. But of course there’s always going to be people who would rather pay $120 or skywards believing they’re getting a better or more accurate tool that will make them a better journeyman, not always the case I have found.

You hit the nail on the head there. The brand hardly matters as long as the thing is square.
Regards
John

There is a lot more to a good square than simply measuring square.

For one thing, it has to remain that way, hopefully forever. Construction, which relies on rivets or pins, is eventually going to move as these loosen. Drop this square, and you can continue dropping it .. in the garbage bin. Peace of mind comes from knowing that the tool you are using will continue to perform exactly as you expect, and nowhere is this more so than with a square.

I like and use double squares, especially small ones 3” - 6” in size. But they must be good quality, which is not the same as expensive. The Vesper square was spendy, but the Starrett was a gift and the Moore&Wright purchased at a swap meet. One of these is enough to meet most people’s needs (but they are my “weakness” ... ).



I have a vintage 6” Starrett double square from eBay. Patience gets you one cheaply. Or get the inexpensive Veritas version from Lee Valley.

But the best squares to have, the ones that you will never question, are engineer’s (or machinist) squares, as they are build to form a single, solid piece. Typical constriction is two pieces of steel joined with steel pins. Unlike wood, the holes holding the pins will not deform. You do not need to pay Vesper prices for an accurate square that will remain accurate forever. You purchase his squares because they are accurate to an extreme (important for the obsessive ) and absolutely beautiful and a joy to use.



The important take away here is that these are a stunning, built to an extreme tolerance, but still just an engineer’s square. They can be had inexpensively.

Do not purchase a Chinese- or Indian-made engineer’s square. Their factories are very capable of making the quality stuff, but cheaply made generally means limited QC and their reliability is questionable. There are old names in the UK which still mean something. Like Moore & Wright. That was the $75 (inc shipping) square I linked to on eBay earlier. It is still there ...



I would jump on it ... long before anything from McJing (who sell some real bargains).

All squares ain't all square.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

I was at McJings yesterday and they have some timber and brass traditional looking try squares there, I tested 8 of them and every single one was spot on perfect. Not bad for a $14 tool I thought. But of course there’s always going to be people who would rather pay $120 or skywards believing they’re getting a better or more accurate tool that will make them a better journeyman, not always the case I have found.

Just curious how, did you too test 8 squares in store.
Apart from the draw a line an flip the square test.??

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Just curious how, did you too test 8 squares in store.
Apart from the draw a line an flip the square test.??

Cheers Matt.

I did the draw a line and flip over, and then Max gave me a $100 engineers square out of it’s case, and I checked them against it.
probably the only other way to check would be to draw two sets of parallel lines at 90 degrees to each other and measure the diagonals.
But I thought that these squares are designed to mark wood, and then it gets cut by hand and eye, so using a machinists “accurate to .5 thousandths ofaninch” square is not really necessary, a bit of overkill really.
But it was an interesting little exercise, and one which I seriously doubt would have been permitted in an other “ Big Name” store.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

I did the draw a line and flip over, and then Max gave me a $100 engineers square out of it’s case, and I checked them against it.
probably the only other way to check would be to draw two sets of parallel lines at 90 degrees to each other and measure the diagonals.
But I thought that these squares are designed to mark wood, and then it gets cut by hand and eye, so using a machinists “accurate to .5 thousandths ofaninch” square is not really necessary, a bit of overkill really.
But it was an interesting little exercise, and one which I seriously doubt would have been permitted in an other “ Big Name” store.

Good to know there’s still customers service around.

Cheers Matt.

My opinion is, Colin Clenton squares is best. it feel good

Last square I got was a $30 Empire combination I got in bunnies to replace my 30 year old combination when the little hook thing on the screw broke. The tool guy sort of raised an eyebrow when I asked to check it for square but gave the nod. Being honest if the likes of a Vesper were to slip into my sock next christmas I would be very happy but I can get by with a square square.
Regards
John

As a little postscript to this, I was watching a video on Youtube explaining how to setup a bandsaw, and I found out something I never knew.

Apparently, engineer's squares are only guaranteed square for the outside edges, whilst workworking squares are only designed to be square on the inside edges. It makes sense, but I never knew it or thought of it.

Well I went back and checked out the inside edge squareness of all my squares (that weren't actually square) and guess what? - they are still not square. hahaha.

That is coincident, Yesterday I received some engineering squares that I want to put in my next episode of China Tools. But they are engineering squares to set up your table saw etc. I have a square from Bridge City that I like, but they have a screwed site. So you need a reference who you hold it up against from time to time. This might be a disadvantage. But when you drop it, at least you can check it and if necessary set it up again. Because with a square you can't adjust it is like Bob38s said, don't let it drop, because when you drop it, and you have bad luck, it is pretty much useless.

Hooked on Wood
Dennis

Originally Posted by derekcohen

How does that help adjust a Nobex? As I understand (having a Nobex), it is the indents which determine its accuracy ... or the blade made be bent. Check the latter as you can file this square (I have done this with speed squares).

Get a good engineer's square (as per the one I linked to). They are the best. (That is what you get from Chris Vesper - a machinist square par excellence).

Regards from Perth

Derek

hi there, ive just trued my nobex 400 octo to dead square it was out 2mm from NEW! to its extremity, the bearings they talk about on these is rubbish they use a plastic indexing that slides into the anodised housing.undo the allen screw at head pull the rule out ,be careful as there are 2 disc washers that will fly out.pry the plastic indented plate up with a blade and it will release. Now depending which way your flip test orientates you file GENTLY on the corner with a file ,sandpaper and its opposing diagonal.Put back together and repeat until your line is one.Goodluck, i believe the 200 and 300 arent as bad